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YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: S Baxter
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,155
Submitted By: markguycan on Nov 4, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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JD thinking about his idol...


Opposite T-Rex, on the main wall. Climb slabby face past bolts and a few optional gear placements to anchor above the limestone band. then past two bolts and a crux move bypassing the roof to the second anchor.


(I found #2camalot and a small TCU useful)

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By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Nov 23, 2006

All I used on the route was a grey and purple camalot and draws. Bolts the rest of the way, must love slab. We did the third pitch also, it was definitely worth it, just wait for the finishing mantle. Look for the little green man.
By mcarizona
From: Flag
Nov 14, 2009

Yeah man, 3 pitches ... unless you count the first as an approach. Thats the business after those chains!
By Derek Field
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 4, 2016
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Burly P2 crux and thoughtful P3 slab make this a worthwhile climb. No trad gear required, except an optional #0.75 or #1 right off the belay on pitch 2. If rapping after dark, nearby homeowners will guide you down with intense floodlights.
By Bill Lundeen
From: Lee Vining, CA
Oct 24, 2016

Funny little route on pretty decent rock. Silly short pitches but fun, good slab climbing with one-weird-move wonder crux right at the protection bolt on the 30' 2nd pitch. Great 3rd pitch if you like slabby face.

One rope gets you down with 2 rappels.
By Bill Lundeen
From: Lee Vining, CA
Dec 13, 2016

Just did this route again after 1 year. First pitch... sure, 5.7ish. Second, 10- crux move? Maybe.... hard to even rate this type of weird move. But pitch 3: now that's the real business. Are you serious??? 5.8?! Come on. I climb 10+ pretty regular in Sedona; I pulled the pitch off clean, but barely. Had 2 followers with me who follow 5.9 without much difficulty who were pulling on draws to make it through the pitch. Awesome pitch! Awesome sandbag!!

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