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YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Peter Beal
Page Views: 4,677
Submitted By: Jim Redo on Sep 8, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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Sending Sinopia, 13a, on my 56th birthday. Photo ...

Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>


Sinopia is the second route from the left. This route looks Waaay easier than it is.

Stick clip the first bolt, because it looks 5.7...but it's not. Climb past three bolts including the first up a corner which deposits you on a ledge. Sit, lay down, have lunch, whatever, but rest before tackling the headwall. Clip two bolts off the ledge and tackle the first crux. Either a big throw if you're tall or pimpin' small grips if not. Shake out and head left to the next crux, technical climbing brings you to the lip and final clip. Don't fall here. There is a kind of a funky last move getting established on the slab. This is a good route.


8-9 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos of Sinopia Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: KC setting up for the second crux.  Photo by: Chri...
KC setting up for the second crux. Photo by: Chri...
Rock Climbing Photo: KC climbing into the upper dihedral. © 2015 Drake...
KC climbing into the upper dihedral. © 2015 Drake...
Rock Climbing Photo: Exiting the 2nd crux.
Exiting the 2nd crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ted Lanzano on Sinopia.
Ted Lanzano on Sinopia.
Rock Climbing Photo: May '09.
May '09.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bruce Miller on Sinopia 5.13a, Frisky Cliff.  Phot...
Bruce Miller on Sinopia 5.13a, Frisky Cliff. Phot...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ted cruising the second crux on sinopia. Photo by ...
Ted cruising the second crux on sinopia. Photo by ...

Comments on Sinopia Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 29, 2015
By Alan Higham
May 2, 2008

I had left draws and a cam on Sinopia at the end of December '07, I noticed recently that they are gone and different draws in place. If anyone has my gear, I would love to get it back.
By Mark Rolofson
Jan 11, 2012
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Great route for a summer morning. The trick for me was figuring out the move off the sloping shelf past the 5th bolt. There are several ways to do this lunge move, but only one worked for me. A second crux past 6th bolt was powerful but more obvious. Still more 5.12 above. This climb has a total of four 5.12 section in a row. The 5.11d dihedral start can feel pretty burly too.
By Kelly P
From: The Bubble, CO
Mar 31, 2012

We were up here today...anyone know what the thin recently bolted face start to the immediate left of the Sinopia start is? It is quite thin, sharp and devious....
By Eric Carlos
From: GJ
Sep 19, 2012

There is also a line that shares the first crux and then, from the jug, goes right through another crux and up to the slab.
By Ben Collett
Sep 20, 2012

That is Sin Gaz. 12c-ish? Kind of fun but not as good as Sinopia.
By Pinklebear
Sep 20, 2012
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

And the direct left start on the Z-seams would be "Con Gaz," or at least that's what we were calling it, but we never could do it. V-double-digit something or other, open project, start with the first bolt stick-clipped, have at it, don't trash your right shoulder....
By ChanVan
Oct 22, 2012
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

I agree that it is definitely harder than it looks, but still not 13a. Fun route, though.
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Sep 20, 2014
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

This is an interesting route with varied climbing. It starts with a short, straightforward, 11d dihedral to a bivy ledge, followed by two short boulder problems (V6 to a V5) split by a jug, and then a 11b dihedral to the anchors. It's not over until you gain the slab. I'm giving this route 3 stars for the quality of climbing overall.

Props to anyone so strong that this feels like 12c. Climbers at their limit in this grade will likely be disappointed if they get on this rig thinking that it's 12c. It definitely feels as hard as most other established 13a routes that I've done, and I'm 6' tall. Hitting the jug, per se, is not the crux. Keeping body tension on the shitty holds while setting up for the throw is, so it's not a height thing. Lucid Dreaming is solid at 12c, and this rig is a good chunk harder.

Btw, the 7th bolt (the first one in the upper dihedral after the boulder-problem traverse) was a spinner. I tightened it with an adjustable wrench, although I recommend keeping an eye on it.
By Bruno Hache
From: Longmont, CO
Mar 3, 2015
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

My take on the rating.
If you are 5'10" or taller, 5.12c/d, unless at 5'10" you have negative ape index.
If you are under 5'10", 5.13a.
It's that simple, IMHO.

Great moves, 4 stars out of 5!
By Bobbi Bensman
Jul 19, 2015

I did this route in October of 2014 in the cold. Such a wonderful, finicky journey. Absolutely worth the trek up here. Good job, Peter Beal! It's hard for me to rate this, as I'm not a good 'granite rock climber', but it seemed like it could be 5.13a?
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Jul 29, 2015
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Twitch: consensus 12d. Sinopia is harder.
Anarchitect: consensus 12d. Sinopia is harder.
The Beast: consensus 13a. Sinopia is harder.

If you're very tall with a healthy ape index and requisite skill, this route might feel easier for you.

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