REI Community
Frisky Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Borg, The S 
Con Gaz S 
Double Impact S 
Orb, The S 
Pesky S 
Rumors of Glory S 
Sin Gaz S 
Sinopia S 
Van Damage S 

Sinopia 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Peter Beal
Page Views: 4,789
Submitted By: Jim Redo on Sep 8, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Sending Sinopia, 13a, on my 56th birthday. Photo ...

  • Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Sinopia is the second route from the left. This route looks Waaay easier than it is.

    Stick clip the first bolt, because it looks 5.7...but it's not. Climb past three bolts including the first up a corner which deposits you on a ledge. Sit, lay down, have lunch, whatever, but rest before tackling the headwall. Clip two bolts off the ledge and tackle the first crux. Either a big throw if you're tall or pimpin' small grips if not. Shake out and head left to the next crux, technical climbing brings you to the lip and final clip. Don't fall here. There is a kind of a funky last move getting established on the slab. This is a good route.

    Protection 

    8-9 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.


    Photos of Sinopia Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: KC setting up for the second crux.  Photo by: Chri...
    KC setting up for the second crux. Photo by: Chri...
    Rock Climbing Photo: KC climbing into the upper dihedral. © 2015 Drake...
    KC climbing into the upper dihedral. © 2015 Drake...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Exiting the 2nd crux.
    Exiting the 2nd crux.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ted Lanzano on Sinopia.
    Ted Lanzano on Sinopia.
    Rock Climbing Photo: May '09.
    May '09.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bruce Miller on Sinopia 5.13a, Frisky Cliff.  Phot...
    Bruce Miller on Sinopia 5.13a, Frisky Cliff. Phot...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ted cruising the second crux on sinopia. Photo by ...
    Ted cruising the second crux on sinopia. Photo by ...

    Comments on Sinopia Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Alan Higham
    May 2, 2008

    I had left draws and a cam on Sinopia at the end of December '07, I noticed recently that they are gone and different draws in place. If anyone has my gear, I would love to get it back.
    Cheers
    By Mark Rolofson
    Jan 11, 2012
    rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

    Great route for a summer morning. The trick for me was figuring out the move off the sloping shelf past the 5th bolt. There are several ways to do this lunge move, but only one worked for me. A second crux past 6th bolt was powerful but more obvious. Still more 5.12 above. This climb has a total of four 5.12 section in a row. The 5.11d dihedral start can feel pretty burly too.
    By Kelly P
    From: The Bubble, CO
    Mar 31, 2012

    We were up here today...anyone know what the thin recently bolted face start to the immediate left of the Sinopia start is? It is quite thin, sharp and devious....
    By Eric Carlos
    From: Chattanooga, TN
    Sep 19, 2012

    There is also a line that shares the first crux and then, from the jug, goes right through another crux and up to the slab.
    By Ben Collett
    Sep 20, 2012

    That is Sin Gaz. 12c-ish? Kind of fun but not as good as Sinopia.
    By Pinklebear
    Sep 20, 2012
    rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

    And the direct left start on the Z-seams would be "Con Gaz," or at least that's what we were calling it, but we never could do it. V-double-digit something or other, open project, start with the first bolt stick-clipped, have at it, don't trash your right shoulder....
    By ChanVan Schaack
    Oct 22, 2012
    rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

    I agree that it is definitely harder than it looks, but still not 13a. Fun route, though.
    By Bruno Hache
    From: Longmont, CO
    Mar 3, 2015
    rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

    My take on the rating.
    If you are 5'10" or taller, 5.12c/d, unless at 5'10" you have negative ape index.
    If you are under 5'10", 5.13a.
    It's that simple, IMHO.

    Great moves, 4 stars out of 5!
    By Bobbi Bensman
    Jul 19, 2015

    I did this route in October of 2014 in the cold. Such a wonderful, finicky journey. Absolutely worth the trek up here. Good job, Peter Beal! It's hard for me to rate this, as I'm not a good 'granite rock climber', but it seemed like it could be 5.13a?

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About