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Unsorted Routes:

Sinners and Infidels 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Jay Smith & John Catto
Page Views: 431
Submitted By: Matt Pesce on Nov 13, 2013

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 


P1: the route shares the first~100' with Off to see the Allah. Continue up the clean off fingers/fingers corner with thick featured calcite. Fixed anchors are found at a stance to the right. 150'
P2 Traverse directly right and find a wide splitter crack (#4 Cam.) continue up crack to deep left facing corner system which becomes steeper and at a scary hollow flake becomes right facing (crux) fingers. Back to good rock and nice hands to another fixed anchor. 190'
P3: I went straight up past a ceiling with scary loose flakes above the belay. My follower trundled most of these. We both felt the corner to the right deserved a closer look as it might be cleaner and less scary. 50'

This route has some awesome and beautiful calcite, solid rock mixed with 2 short sections of terrifying rock. Go do it. 3 stars with some cleaning.

Location 

Route is located in the center of the W. face of the Rectory where a large, clean calcite face meets darker rock to the south. A corner system is formed by this junction.

Protection 

(1 ea.) 00-#4 Camalot with maybe (3 ea.).4-1 Camalots


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By Matt Pesce
From: moab, ut.
Nov 13, 2013

I felt this route was more like .11a and almost 3 stars but maybe I was just terrified.
Can I say again how awesomely cool the calcite was ?

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