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Sinister 6000 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Joe Kinder
Page Views: 436
Submitted By: Eli on Oct 7, 2015

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Crux

Description 

Originally an open project, this line was first sent by Joe Kinder in 2000. Ward has described this line as "long, sustained, and powerful".

Description from Will McFarland: Do a V5 intro crimp section to a big jug then clip the next two draws. From the jug, traverse out left to the big chimney (difficult) to gain a massive kneebar (pad recommended). Through some trickery, remove the kneebar and do a couple of moves to gain a seemingly enhanced undercling with your left hand. Do a reachy move to a mono slot/crimp (crux) with your right hand and clip. Cross over left hand to slot above mono and go up to a series of crimps/gastons/sidepulls. Do one more massive move to a jug crimp to clip the last draw then do one more moderate boulder problem, reaching out left to a corner and one more jump to the anchor jug. This thing is solid in the grade and I think is harder than the more popular 13d's at Waimea. Essentially a long V10 boulder from the kneebar.

Location 

To the left of Rhythm X

Protection 

Five bolts


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By Will McFarland
From: Lebanon, NH
Jul 10, 2017
rating: 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a

I've tried this one a few times, on the top of my ticklist but suffering from incessant seepage this year. Do a V5 intro crimp section to a big jug then clip the next two draws. From the jug, traverse out left to the big chimney (difficult) to gain a massive kneebar (pad recommended). Through some trickery, remove the kneebar and do a couple of moves to gain a seemingly enhanced undercling with your left hand. Do a reachy move to a mono slot/crimp (crux, extensively enhanced) with your right hand and clip. Cross over left hand to slot above mono and go up to a series of crimps/gastons/sidepulls. Do one more massive move to a jug crimp to clip the last draw then do one more moderate boulder problem, reaching out left to a corner and one more jump to the anchor jug. This thing is solid in the grade and I think is harder than the more popular 13d's at Waimea. Essentially a long V9/10 boulder from the kneebar.
By Eli
From: Lives in a truck
Jul 11, 2017

Hope you send it Will! conditions will just keep getting better as the year goes on! I updated the route description with your info.

Eli

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