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Single Gun Theory 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Rex Mammel
Page Views: 249
Submitted By: Rex Mammel on Apr 8, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Burly!! 11d OS for certain!


This is a clean line up impressive and intimidating buttress between Jelly Bellies and Dough Boys . It pulls several small roofs on thin holds. It is strenuous for the grade.


Bolts to cold shuts with a runout on hard moves to the anchor, but the fall is clean.

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By Rex Mammel
May 12, 2002

Added one bolt on the trip to the anchors. Route is more enjoyable for the typical shelf climber without the runnout.
By Rex Mammel
May 23, 2002

This route is 10 bolts long including sharing 2 bolts with the route which veers off right.
By Jesse Ryan
Jun 22, 2004
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

11d for the OS - once the line is known maybe 11c for the RP. Good line.
By phil wortmann
From: Colorado Springs, Co.
Oct 16, 2011

This route is nowhere near three stars. Contrived line to CHIPPED holds. Compared to partners or apple, this is a bomb. Sorry man, but I couldn't recommend this climb to anyone.
By Jean Spencer
From: Seattle, WA
Oct 21, 2012

This climb was thought provoking, long (for Shelf) and super fun. Fairly committing moves on small holds and over two roofs. The exposure on the arête is well worth it. Highly recommended.
By Paul Hassett
From: Aurora CO
Apr 10, 2016

After reading comments posted about this route, thought I would add another. I found this route really great for the grade and wished I had not waited so long to do it.

It has a bit of everything - technical slab start, finger locks, compression moves, pockets, and roof. It keeps you on your toes and is a great onsight challenge. If there is chipping, as claimed by one comment, I certainly did not see it, but to each their own.

Only drawback is the belay, which seems to be best done from the steps under the climb, as opposed to the continuously eroding slope underneath it.

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