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Old New Place
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4-Star Arete TR 
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Gulf Stream T,TR 
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Route 10 T,TR 
Route 16 T,TR 
Route 17 T,TR 
Route 19 T,TR 
Route 20 T,TR 
Route 7 T,TR 
Sinewave (aka S Crack) T,TR 
Songs of Love TR 
Tetherball T,TR 
Total Abstinence T,TR 

Sinewave (aka S Crack) 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, TR, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Mike Roybal, early 1970s
Page Views: 1,310
Submitted By: Jason Hundhausen on Jun 11, 2008

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Fiddling gear into the thin start of the upper cra...


Sinewave: One of the most intriguing routes to be found at the Old New Place or in White Rock, for that matter. A challenging and sequency boulder problem off the deck, begin climbing the sinusoidal crack, which will test your skills and strength as you work to keep from barndooring off. The crack is more of a seam for the first 15 feet, although there are places where small RPs would provide protection; bold leaders solid at the grade will love this route. After the initial crux the grade eases for the next 15 feet with large ledges providing good rests and more opportunities to place gear. The route splits into two cracks after this: the left crack, which is assumed to be off-route, goes at a grade of 5.8 to 5.9 rattly fingers to hands with lots of face holds; the right takes you up an excellent overhanging thin fingers to tips crack which, if not for a large sinker pocket midway up on the left, would be significantly more difficult. Ten more feet of climbing in the crack and on small crimps gets you to the top of this classic route.

Historical Note: It’s reported that the late Derek Hersey freesoloed Sinewave back in the day. Think about that next time you jump on this route!


Route 13 on the Old New Place Topo. Easily identifiable by its namesake, Sinewave begins 15 feet to the left of Rattlesnake Crack.


Nuts: 1 set including micros
Cams: 1 each up to #1 Camalot with doubles in the .3 to .5 range. Micro TCUs or C3s may come in handy too.
2-bolt anchor.

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By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
Mar 13, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

This is probably the toughest "5.11" crack at White Rock that sees more than occasional action. S-Crack is way more difficult than all the other 5.11s on this cliff, and substantially harder than Unrelenting Nines at The Playground. There are at least 3 different ways I've seen people pass the crux, though some may argue that using any holds more than about 2' away from the crack itself is cheating. While most will opt to toprope it, it can be a reasonable lead if you're okay with trusting the small gear. At the crux moves about 12' up, only brassies or other small nuts are between you and the ground. A straight-sided BD #3 wire has saved my butt a few times. A few have pulled gear and hit the ground, myself included, thankfully the landing is flat and sandy.

Rack: (2 ea.) cams from #00 TCU - #0.75 camalot, (1) #1 camalot, and RPs, especially if taking the harder right branch for the upper section. A #2 camalot is nice for the left crack finish.

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