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Original Meat Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A.D.D. T 
Chopping Block T 
Flare Mignon T 
Hand Prints T 
Hydroponic Pork T 
Ladies First T 
Meat Hooks T 
Pull Left T 
Reaper Wears Pink, The T 
Right Arm T 
Sickle, The T 
Sinestra T 
Streets of Delhi, The T 
Tofu Crack T 
Unknown 10- (wide R facing flake) T 
Wee Doggie T 


YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Robert Warren
Page Views: 12,425
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Mar 19, 2002

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This is the beta when you're 5'7" and have a ...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


This route lies about 100 feet to the left of where the approach trail hits the wall. Look for the obvious pods in the crack, Right Arm which lies just to the right of Sinestra. Starts off a pedestal in a short offwidth. This route is a real journey with sustained hand/wide-hands jamming for a full rope length. Throw in an improbable, intricate face traverse and a finishing body length roof split by a perfect handcrack and you have an ultimate crack line. Don't worry, the face climbing is well protected. You will be loving all the borrowed #3 Camalots in the sustained wide-hands section. I really can't say enough about how awesome this route is. Have fun!


Mostly hands and wide hands. There is a 30-foot stretch of wide hands where #3 Camalots work great. I would suggest at least 5 pieces of that size. The rest of the route is mostly great hands so bring at least 8 #2 Camalots or #3 Friends. Make sure you save at least 1 #2 Camalot for the exciting finish. A #4 Camalot is useful to protect the opening moves. Bring a couple smaller pieces but nothing micro.

Photos of Sinestra Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Don't sneeze, you might fall off
Don't sneeze, you might fall off
Rock Climbing Photo: Eyeballin' the crack switch on Sinestra.   Photo: ...
Eyeballin' the crack switch on Sinestra. Photo: ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Full extension.
BETA PHOTO: Full extension.
Rock Climbing Photo: beautiful wide splitter
beautiful wide splitter
Rock Climbing Photo: Sean just past the first roof on Sinestra. Still a...
Sean just past the first roof on Sinestra. Still a...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sean just past the traverse heading into the first...
Sean just past the traverse heading into the first...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sean setting up for the traverse, eying the next c...
Sean setting up for the traverse, eying the next c...
Rock Climbing Photo: I'll keep jammin thank you.
I'll keep jammin thank you.
Rock Climbing Photo: The final roof, a long way up.
The final roof, a long way up.
Rock Climbing Photo: This reach is spooky on lead when you've never don...
This reach is spooky on lead when you've never don...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ari on Sinestra
Ari on Sinestra
Rock Climbing Photo: floating it
floating it

Comments on Sinestra Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 24, 2016
By Andy Johnson
Mar 11, 2003

This is one of the coolest pitches I have ever done. The climbing is not really that hard, it is just very sustained. There are however, some excellent rests. The face traverse really makes this climb a classic. This is a must do. Be sure to put runners on your pieces right before and right after the traverse, otherwise you will have some vicious rope drag by the end.
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 4, 2003

I plugged a 5 camalot into the rest stance below the final roof and was able to stack my trail rope on it, thereby reducing drag from hideous to tolerable.Fantastic route!!
By Max Schon
Oct 22, 2004
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Superb and pumpy route. I would suggest bringing two #3.5 Camalots, six #3 Camalots or 3.5 Friends, six #2 Camalots, three #1 Camalots or 2.5 friends, and maybe one .75 Camalot or #2 Friend. The slot in the beginning is easily protectable with a #3 camalot. At least three runners and four draws will help alleviate rope drag.
By Joe A
From: Moab, Utah
Apr 18, 2005

probably my favorite route at the creek. beautiful and long. the traverse is one of the wildest moves in the creek. so fun.
By Laurent Meillon
From: Golden, CO
Oct 29, 2005

FA: Robert WarrenSinistra, Meat Hooks, and Right Arm were all put up the same day by Warren and Colorado Springs crew. It was the first time they went to the Creek to do anything else than lines to the top, hence the length of these 1-pitch routes - a rope length of the time: 50 m.Needless to say they were psyched to find these 3 killer lines, all within 15 seconds from one another!
By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 26, 2006
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

one of my top five favorites at indian creek, at least.
By Vince MacMillan
From: Dolores, CO
Aug 7, 2006
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Absolutely Freakin' Stupendous Route! One note however: When following my pard's outstanding lead effort I got to the section before the final roof and shoved a thin hand jam in just below a well placed #7 Hex. As I wrenched down with my thumb I noticed with mild horror that the seemingly solid crack expanded and the piece slid out all on its own. That entire 8-10 foot section beneath that amazing roof finish is, somehow, an "expando" flake! A fall out of the pumpy roof on to any gear in that crack would be just an all-around Bad Idea, man. (The mildness of my horror was because I was following. If I had been leading, I would have projectile vomited.)And if that whole section is expandable with thumb flexing, then the anchors immediately above it are also suspect. I know I won't be lining up for this one after the next freeze/thaw cycle, but other than that. . . .
By Jason Haas
Oct 23, 2006
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Don't let the grade intimidate you. While this route is a blast, there is nothing 5.11 about it. Great hands to wide hands for the whole way and the traverse can be done two different ways, both ways being no harder than 5.10. If you are at the wall, it is definitely a must do.
By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Nov 13, 2006
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This has become my favorite route at the creek! What an amazing pitch, with a wild face traverse thrown in for added value and excitement. I believe this pitch is honest 5.11.
By Diego Rivera
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 5, 2008

Indeed there is crap rock just below the upper roof, tap tap the right side of the crack to find where it ends, several feet before the roof itself. If you still have a #1 camalot it'll go in the good rock just above the hollow bit. You can back clean it after you place the #2 in the roof/lip to avoid drag.

At this point you could run it to the anchors and the Big whip would be clean.

Significantly more difficult than lots of 11- creek big hands. 5.11 for the creek.
By Dustin Clelen
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 23, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

I found the above advice about saving a #2 camalot for protecting the final roof to be fan-friggin-tastic beta (no joke). A #1 might work as well if you're short on gear. Also, I used a .75 camalot to protect the traverse. You need to do a move above the little ledge to get it in there (and the rock isn't great) but it provides an appreciated feeling of security for doing that step-across. Put a long sling (or even a double) on it and the piece after, and the rope drag isn't bad at all.
By Bones Perkins
From: Rexburg, ID
Oct 7, 2012
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

I can really only describe this as being.... indescribable... In the absolute best way possible. Holy crap.
By Matt Hoffmann
From: Squamish
May 3, 2013

Seriously one of the funnest routes I've ever done. The crack switch is unbelievable and you feel so badass when you do it (once you are established, while you are doing it is scary as hell!). The roof at the top is stellar and it is totally achievable at the grade. I'm psyched to get on this beast again!

Just remember how long it is and bring a tag line! I had to rap as far as I could on an 80m then down aid to the boulder.
By Mr. Stevens
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 24, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Definitely some scary loose rock just below the roof.
By Kevin DB
Apr 8, 2014

Incredible route. I literally had a euphoric buzz for an hour after climbing it. One of the best pitches at the creek or anywhere.
By Bowie Pearson
From: Portland, OR
Nov 30, 2015
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Like WOAH. Don't be intimidated and get on this thing! I liked having a #1 before the traverse, along with a #1 for after the traverse. Two words for the traverse: thumb catch. The #3 sections are lovely, and that pod at the start is way better than it looks! Save a #2 for the end. SO GOOD!
By bphelps15
From: Redwood City, CA
Oct 24, 2016

Take more cams than the book says!!! Bloom's recommended rack is about 3 cams too light for this route. I used what he advised and had to back clean a few #3s in the section above the traverse and below the no hands rest, all of which were scarily tipped out. My partner did it in a safer stye with 8X3 and 3X4. His recommendation on 1s and 2s is solid.