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El Capitan Base Routes
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Ahab T 
Bluffer, The T 
Captain Hook, Left T 
Captain Hook, Right T 
Delectable Pinnacle, Right  T 
El Cap Tree T 
Footstool, Right, The T 
Freeblast T 
Gollum T 
Hardly Pinnacle T 
Indubious Battle T 
La Arista T,S 
La Cosita, Left T 
La Cosita, Right T 
La Escuela T 
Little John, Left T 
Little John, Right T 
Mark of Art T 
Masquerade/Call Me Ishmael S 
Moby Dick T 
Moby Dick, Left T 
Party Mix T 
Peter Left T 
Peter Pan T 
Pine Line T 
Pterodactyl Terrace, Left T 
Pterodactyl Terrace, Right T 
Reeds Leads T 
Rock Neurotic S 
Sacherer Cracker T 
Salathe (pitch 1) T 
Seedy Leads T 
Short But Thin T 
Simulkrime T,TR 
Slack ( center), The T 
Slack, Left, The T 
Sparkling Give-away T,S 
TRON S 
West Buttress (pitch 1&2) T 

Simulkrime 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: John Middendorf, Tucker Tech, 1985
Page Views: 1,212
Submitted By: o.v.y. on Jun 5, 2011

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Bryson Fienup climbs Simulkrime (5.9), below the A...

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Looong single-pitch route which requires a 70m rope (just enough). Very run-out but can be top-roped. Spectacular setting guaranteed.

Location 

The route climbs up the slabs right into The Alcove.

Protection 

3 bolts in the lower part. 2-bolt belay up in The Alcove.


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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jan 3, 2017

Agreed, spectacular setting! And incredible, sustained slab climbing!

This route can be set up as a long top-rope by scrambling up the far right side of the Alcove and then committing to an exposed traverse to the bolts atop this route--there are two body lengths of easy fifth class moves just before the anchor. The full route, beginning directly below the first bolt is 230 feet long, although it is possible to traverse into the second bolt from the right (skipping some of the fine climbing down low) and to climb this route using only a 60m rope.

We found the climbing between the first and second bolts to be stout for the grade--harder than Marginal on the Apron and comparable to 5.10s on Dome Rock, near the Needles.

This route is an excellent option on sunny winter days. On the day that we climbed it was 35 degrees and snowy in El Cap Meadow, yet we were able to climb in long sleeve shirts. The rock was warm to the touch.

He are Bryson & Wesley before beginning the hike up to the Alcove:
Rock Climbing Photo: El Cap Meadow
El Cap Meadow

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