|Type:||Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 200'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]|
|FA:||John Middendorf, Tucker Tech, 1985|
|Submitted By:||o.v.y. on Jun 5, 2011|
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|Comments on Simulkrime||Add Comment|
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By Matthew Fienup
From: Ventura, CA
Jan 3, 2017
Agreed, spectacular setting! And incredible, sustained slab climbing!
This route can be set up as a long top-rope by scrambling up the far right side of the Alcove and then committing to an exposed traverse to the bolts atop this route--there are two body lengths of easy fifth class moves just before the anchor. The full route, beginning directly below the first bolt is 230 feet long, although it is possible to traverse into the second bolt from the right (skipping some of the fine climbing down low) and to climb this route using only a 60m rope.
We found the climbing between the first and second bolts to be stout for the grade--harder than Marginal on the Apron and comparable to 5.10s on Dome Rock, near the Needles.
This route is an excellent option on sunny winter days. On the day that we climbed it was 35 degrees and snowy in El Cap Meadow, yet we were able to climb in long sleeve shirts. The rock was warm to the touch.
He are Bryson & Wesley before beginning the hike up to the Alcove: