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YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,659
Submitted By: ClimbandMine on Jun 2, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (40)
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Twenty feet right of Going to the Chapel, this is a great face climb with a crux at the first bolt and a Thank God jug after the sequence. It was the best route of the day.


6-7 bolts plus anchors.

Photos of Simplexity Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Erin on "Simplexity"  Photo by Blitzo.
Erin on "Simplexity" Photo by Blitzo.

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By Clint Locks
From: Boulder
Jun 18, 2003

I enjoyed this route a lot, as it was more interesting than a number of the others in the area. The opening moves make the climb, and aren't as bad as the Gillette book says. It WAS nice to have a spotter to the first bolt, though.
By Anonymous Coward
Dec 22, 2004

This is a fun route! A little technical footwork then have fun! Bolts where you need them.
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 25, 2005

If you're not up for leading the hard climbing to the high first bolt and didn't bring your stick clip, you can lead Going to the Chapel and then rap down to the anchor atop Simplexity.You can then top rope Simplexity or pre-clip the first one or two bolts.
By Chris Swope
From: Greeley, co
Sep 10, 2005

Did this route yesterday I think. Actually did three routes right around that area but am not sure what the other two where. I am assuming Simplexity is the one that goes up the black streak like the book says. Does anyone know what the two route are to the left of it and to the right of Going to the Chapel. They seemed maybe 5.8 and 5.9 ish.
By Theo Barker
From: Loveland, CO
Sep 30, 2005

The route between Going to the Chapel and Simplexity is Altered Boy. If your start off the ground wasn't substantially harder than the most of the rest of the climb then you were probably not on Simplexity, but one of the unknown routes to the right of it.
By Luke Clarke
From: Golden
Jun 15, 2008

A blue Metolius TCU placed in the slanting crack will protect the tricky moves to the first bolt. That sequence may be the crux of the climb.
By Canon
Aug 7, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

A spotter to the first bolt would be nice, and you really dont want to let go of that "Thank God" jug.
By Bruce Hildenbrand
Dec 11, 2014

In June 2014, Dale Haas and I replaced one of the cold shut hangers (we couldn't unscrew the other anchor bolt, but it was OK) on the anchor with SS hanger. We added SS quicklinks and rings to the anchor bolts. The hardware was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association- ASCA( They appreciate your support.
By Zeffe
Aug 7, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Enjoyable! The crux is between 1st and 2nd bolt. Interesting sequence and a bit tricky given you could come close to the ground if you blow it.
By Bruce Hildenbrand
Aug 22, 2016

Dale Haas and replaced the other cold shut anchor at the belay with a SS Powers 5-piece bolt. The anchor now has one SS bolt, one plated steel bolt, two SS hangers, and SS quicklinks and rings.

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