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Simian's Way 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: FFA Steve Wunsch, et al.
Page Views: 1,371
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Oct 20, 2002

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BETA PHOTO

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  • Description 

    Begin about 50 feet uphill from the obvious Green Dihedral below the first pitch splitter finger crack. With a 60m rope, you can probably do this in two pitches if you set the first belay fairly high.

    P1. Climb a steep, juggy face for about 15 feet. Climb around a short flake and onto a good stance at the base of an awesome looking finger crack. Climb the crack with great gear and even better jams. Stop at the fixed slings if only doing this pitch (now bolted anchor). If continuing on, make a rising traverse left into a right-facing dihedral, and belay below a steep, broken section directly below the offwidth. This is a definite 3-star pitch, 5.9+.

    P2. Climb through a steep, chossy section with great holds so long as they stay put. Pull over a deceptively tricky bulge, and crawl on in the slightly overhung, flaring crack. When I did this, there was a fixed hex + nut equalized with some rap rings at the crux bulge of the offwidth. The crux may be in manuvering around these pieces, but they do give peace of mind. After the bulge, the crack pinches down from flaring offwidth to flaring fingertips. Bring a purple Metolius. Pull one final bulge with some more trickery, and continue up much easier ground (some 5.8, lots of bird shit) until reaching a suitable belay stance. I stopped about 40 feet shy of scrambling at the top, 5.11a.

    P3. Climb a short pitch up a right-facing dihedral, and trend up and left towards the saddle once on easy ground, 5.8.

    To descend, scramble around the back of the tower towards the fixed rap stations. Route finding is a little tricky. By staying low, we found a rap station off of a questionable tree that led to a walkable gully below the fixed stations.

    Protection 

    Up to a #3.5 Camalot for the offwidth and an optional #4 below it. There are fixed anchors on top of the stellar first pitch.


    Photos of Simian's Way Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Keegan on Simian's Way, great first pitch, a ...
    Mike Keegan on Simian's Way, great first pitch, a ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Moving through the bulge. There are a few hand jam...
    Moving through the bulge. There are a few hand jam...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Above the bulge the climbing eases off to maybe 7 ...
    Above the bulge the climbing eases off to maybe 7 ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Luke is just below the bulge.
    Luke is just below the bulge.

    Comments on Simian's Way Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Anonymous Coward
    Oct 28, 2002

    Awesome route. The fixed slings at top of P1 are an eyesore.
    By Andy Moore
    Oct 28, 2003

    The 5.9+ first pitch is quite good and well worth doing by itself. Take extra nuts and cams in the fingertips to fingers range.

    You can get down from the first pitch with one rope, either from a slightly scary mess of slings threaded at the bottom of a huge detached flake (this can be backed up with gear for the belay), or it is possible to traverse over to the anchors for the bolted climbs to the left.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Aug 18, 2004

    Fun route. Pitches 1,3 and four are good. Pitch two is whatever. There was a fixed piece at the crux when I did this, which I backed up with a #4 Camalot. After that you'll be psyched to have a good selection of Aliens or small TCUs. More face climbing than thrutching. Although, I sure did a bit of thrutching.
    By Kevin Gillest
    From: Arvada, CO
    Aug 23, 2011

    First pitch is not to be missed, great pitch.

    Does anybody know the actual start, is it direct or traverse in from the left?
    By claramie
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 8, 2016

    P1 now has awesome bolted anchors with rings, if you're just gonna do P1. Kevin, I believe the start is direct. We found some edges, huecos, and flakes, and it was cruiser.