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BETA PHOTO: Climbers on Simian
Would be a classic, if not for the nasty polish lending a desperate feel to the crux.
Climb an easy face to the obvious cracked roof and pro it up in the nice cracks here. Work your feet up on glassy shiza until you can gain positive slopers above and pull over. Whew! Now pick your way up to the robust "common whitebean" tree belay (plaque here) by generally sticking to the right.
The obvious roof with an undercut block towards the right side of the crag
standard rack, nothing fixed. A 0.5 C4 was handy at the crux.