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4. The Perfect Wave Slab
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bonsai T 
Bubbles T 
Crazy Woman Driver T 
Cruise Control T 
First Wave, The T 
Friday's Friend T 
Perfect Wave T 
Petroglyph, The T 
Silver Surfer T 
Super Slab T 
Take A Giant Step 5.8+PG / 5.7-5.6 PG-R T 
Tsunami T 

Silver Surfer 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c X

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c X [details]
FA: Ward Smith and Chris Smith Aug 1984
Page Views: 163
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Oct 1, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Detail of Silver Surfer & Far Left of Perfect Wave...


Nice moves, but pretty run out to lead!

START - A few feet right of where the climber's path meets the cliff.

P1 - As with First Wave, Take a Giant Step and Perfect Wave, climb the initial slab up to the small maple tree ledge. 70-80 ft 5.4 R

P2 - Move out-and-up to the right 15-20 ft (last gear) and then directly up the slab [Var] headed for a left-arching crack/flake that is about 40-50 ft above you, and 25 +/- feet left of, and slightly below, the flake on the climb Perfect Wave. Belay at a comfortable ledge. (with a Belay/Rap station anchor) 80 ft 5.7+ / 5.8- X

Variation - This drops the grade a point or two, but not the "X" factor. Instead of heading directly for the flake & anchor, move up-and-right to intercept the line of in-cuts and mini-ledges which is the extension of the left-hand of the two dikes on Perfect Wave. 5.6 - 5.7 X

P3- Gear in flake, then up and left following the faint dike, then up, slightly right, to the double bolt anchor. 85-90 ft 5.5-5.6 PG-13/R

Descend - Rap the route. Three single-rope raps, or use two 60 m on the middle station to reach the ground. (or two 70m ropes from the very top bolts.)


normal rack

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By M Sprague
From: New England
Oct 2, 2014

FAists must have scared themselves silly, came to their senses and started putting up properly bolted sport routes, lol.

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