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Redgarden - Lumpe to the top
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Silver Raven 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Skip Guerin & Bob Horan FFA, 1981
Fixed Hardware: 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 5,084
Submitted By: David A. Turner on Nov 25, 2001

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Duncan coming to grips.

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  • Description 

    This excellent route is just to the right of The Grand Course on the West Ridge of Redgarden. It has two pitches, but it is better to do the first pitch of Silver Raven followed by the 11a pitch of Grand Course.

    Climb up the chimney on the right for about twenty feet. Place nuts out left from an insecure position and then traverse into the crux. Fire that, then get ready for a burly, awkward section just afterward (llb) to a much appreciated stance. Easier finger jams lead to a belay ledge where you are required to build your own anchor. David A. Turner


    Standard Eldo rack with Aliens.

    Photos of Silver Raven Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Silver Raven, 11d. Photo: Johanna Twiford.
    Silver Raven, 11d. Photo: Johanna Twiford.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Rufus Miller leading Silver Raven, photo: Bob Hora...
    Rufus Miller leading Silver Raven, photo: Bob Hora...
    Rock Climbing Photo: the Hankinator cruisin' in style photo by Julia Ha...
    the Hankinator cruisin' in style photo by Julia Ha...

    Comments on Silver Raven Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Chris Dawson
    From: Denver, CO
    Nov 26, 2001

    The guide gives this an "S" rating. How good is the pro on the first pitch?
    By steve dieckhoff
    Nov 28, 2001


    I think the pro on this is actually quite good but can be somewhat strenuous to place. From a stance you can clip a fixed bomber small stopper in the corner and then add several more. These protect the initial part of the crux and the highest is no lower than your feet when you place the next gear. A small cam and some stoppers can be placed from a pumpy stance on good holds in the corner. The next corner above takes very small cams well and 'over-your-head' stoppers. If you finish on the GRAND COURSE you might try placing something like a #2 or #3 Camalot in a short slot at the crux-the alternative is a wobbly nut. I didn't have the big cam when I did it a few months ago so I'm just guessing. You can find a rap anchor up and left from the end of GRAND COURSE, it's the top of PARIS GIRL.

    SILVER RAVEN is a great route-have fun.
    By Chris Dawson
    From: Denver, CO
    Feb 12, 2002

    The slot that Steve D. mentions at the crux of the Grand Course takes a perfect 3.5 Camalot.
    By Brad Bond
    May 19, 2004
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

    I think the "s" on this route is another leftover from the early 80's when there were no micro cams. Going up on this route with a couple sets of TCU's and Aliens feels much more comforting than the thought of using nuts alone. Even with the new gear, this is a challenging lead as the gear is below your feet when climbing through the crux, and is very strenuous to place up high. (OK, maybe it still deserves and "s") This route -- finishing on the .11a crux of Grand Course -- can be led in one long, pumpy pitch from the ground. Wow!
    By Rob Kepley
    From: Westminster,CO
    Jul 30, 2006
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

    Absolutely spectacular climb. Great position and movement. Linked with the 2nd pitch of Grand Course creates a stellar line. One of Eldo's best!
    By Ben Walburn
    Mar 20, 2011
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

    Spectacular route! The gear is tricky down low, but it is there. I felt like this was easier than other 11+ routes in the canyon. I give it 11c PG-13. At the top, I finished on the right set of anchors, not the Grand Course anchors. This allows for lowering to the pinnacle with a 60m cord. There are now bolted anchors on this route.
    By Rainbowweinstock Weinstock
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 7, 2013
    rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

    Great climb! A couple of solid nuts (large RP and similarly sized nut) placed together right above the rusty old grey TCU took a lot of the hazard out of the climb for me. I did a few moves on the arete and then got a solid 0.4 Camalot jammed into the back of the slot on the right hand side. A 70m is very useful to have for this and Grand Course unless you want to play a lot of games getting people on and off of the ledge 30' above the ground.
    By craigw
    Jun 28, 2013

    As previously stated, this climb rules. You can get a good small cam (I used the 0.4 grey Camalot) way out left and around the corner from the main dihedral. You place it after you make the first move above the fixed cam from a good right hand hold. It's kind of a blind placement, but you can eye it up from the ground. Getting this piece allows you to punch through the crux section and not have to place pumpy gear.
    By michalm
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 12, 2017
    rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

    Very sustained route. Pumpy to place gear. Really fun moves. This route rewards going for it. The long crux sequence from stemming into the thin corner to pulling around the roof is all of 11+ to onsight with only one decent place to stop and shake, and the tips corner above that stays pretty sustained with no moves easier than 10+/11-.

    To climb the original route, continue up the El Matador-style double stemming corner. Good gear can be had in the upper right side. Pull up and out the right side on hand jams and jugs out a bulge into a flaring handcrack that takes small gear if you feel like placing it. The bolted anchors are just above.

    A good rack for this route would be:
    A few medium sized brass offsets
    1-2 sets of nuts from #4 to #7 size stoppers
    2-3 sets purple to yellow Mastercams or blue to yellow Aliens
    2 BD 0.75 C4
    1 BD 2 C4
    A bunch of quickdraws and slings.

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