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The Quarry Wall
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Ode to the Lowball 
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One Night T 
Pocket Rocket 
Recession 2016 S 
Recession Arete S 
Scotland 'Wales' 
Shark Jaw T 
Sharkcicle T 
Short Tour, The T 
Silver Bullet T 
Something to Do 
South Arête 
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Warm Up Crack T 
Whale, The 
Unsorted Routes:

Silver Bullet 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Wayne Crill
Season: winter
Page Views: 4,068
Submitted By: Wayne Crill on Apr 14, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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Finger locking goodness.


Silver Bullet is the 1st route left of the most obvious line (Bone Crusher) on the buttress. It climbs a finger crack in a left-facing dihedral through a crux bulge and out a final roof to a double bolt anchor.

Start with a tricky boulder problem through flaky rock to a hand slot and the first gear. A good spot is recommended. Then fingers for ~50’, through a crux bulge and a final stance before the last 25’ of climbing through a fun roof.


Doubles or triples in finger sized cams and a couple hand-sized pieces. All three of the routes on the main buttress can be toproped, unfortunately its tricky to get over the edge to the anchors. Up top you will find a crack and a bolt, rappel from here over the lip (careful loose rock!) to the anchors on any of the routes.

Photos of Silver Bullet Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Crux move, harder than it looks.
Crux move, harder than it looks.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking straight up Silver Bullet.
Looking straight up Silver Bullet.
Rock Climbing Photo: Joe pulling the final roof.
Joe pulling the final roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: Alex on Silver Bullet!
Alex on Silver Bullet!
Rock Climbing Photo: Joe cruxing on Silver Bullet.
Joe cruxing on Silver Bullet.

Comments on Silver Bullet Add Comment
Show which comments
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 14, 2008
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

A bit dirty under the roof. Couple of loose sounding blocks in the roof, but harder than it looks.
By Dougald MacDonald
Apr 14, 2008

It's pretty easy to place a medium-size nut with a stick to protect the difficult opening moves.
By david goldstein
Apr 14, 2008

A great crack for the Front Range, sustained and thoughtful. Would be four stars w/ better rock.
By Chris Cavallaro
Apr 15, 2008

I thought this was definitely 11+, possibly 12a. Holy fingerlocks! Awkward pulling the final roof.
By Mark Ferguson
Feb 7, 2009

The opening move protects very well with a yellow C3 Camalot. Great pitch and 12- for sure.
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Feb 15, 2009

I recently cleaned the flakey rock out of that placement. After working the route a bit, it was making me crazy that such a perfect crack had the gnar-gnar start. My partner thought my idea to clean the crack was wrong. Then I read the commnents above and thought: "It's not just me!"

Had there been anything sketchy about cleaning the rotten crack, then Will would certainly have been contacted first. Marks observation require's me to explain why a stick-clip is no longer needed.
By Scott Bennett
Mar 5, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Thanks Ken for cleaning out the start, I thought it was pretty tricky and was very glad to have a piece in right off the ground. Big thanks to the folks that have been developing this crag, it's a really cool place.

The crux was more sustained than I expected. I thought it was over when I grabbed the jug at the top of the overhanging section, but the next move might have been the hardest (or maybe I was just pumped).

Also, make sure to save a small cam for pulling over the last roof, it's tough to find a piece that's in solid rock up there, but I think I got a pretty good green C3, and my partner said he found a good 0.4 Camalot.
By Devan Johnson
May 16, 2014
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

An excellent route! Difficult to find a sustained crack climb of this quality and grade in the Front Range, SB is a true gem. The sustained nature and insecure moves over the bulge push this route into 12a territory.
By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
May 16, 2014

Well done, Devan! You don't think anything is hard for the grade, so you're comment carries weight.

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