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|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
This route climbs the gently overhanging west face of the porch. Characterized by steep engaging climbing with moderate run outs on crispy flakes at times!
P1: 5.11+ Climb 4th class chimney to a belay spot a top pillar. Bust a moderate boulder problem off belay. The pitch trends left after 25ft. Cool steep climbing even optional knee bar! 140ft
P2: 5.10 Traverse right from belay gain a left facing corner system. This pitch is has very crispy flakes, tread lightly! 60ft
P3: 5.11- Highly recommend using the belay as your first piece. Pull a fun juggy boulder problem, then head up and right into a leaning left facing corner. The rest of the pitch is 5.9 but has pretty crispy flakes. Belay from the tree above on the 3rd class ramp/ down climb for Fox Trot.120ft
To reach the rim traverse left/ walk and exit via the 3rd class chimney to the rim!
Silver Back is located on the west face of the porch feature in Lower Mill Creek. The best way to reach the base of the route. Is to rap Fox Trot and and walk down stream 100 yards, route, begins with a 5.0 chimney for 30ft. Best to climb chossy chimney then belay from the top of the pillar like feature that makes the left wall of the chimney for the rest of the first pitch.
.3- .75 camalots
By Amos Whiting
From: Basalt, Colorado
May 15, 2014
Nice addition to LMC. The route climbs steeper on bigger holds than your typical mill creek route. A bit crispy with some space over bolts, some gear could reduce the run outs. But over all a worthy route.
Might be best to warm up on the top pitch of Fox trot or another route, as the first 20 feet have some thin pulling.