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Silly Wizard 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
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Page Views: 108
Submitted By: euthyphro on Feb 15, 2016

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Description 

A decent alternative if nearby routes are occupied or if one wants to practice run out slab on easy terrain.


Twenty-five feet of 5.6-7 climbing up a right-facing corner with a good crack brings you to the start of the slab with a bolt a few feet up and to the left of the termination of the crack.

A good stance with that bolt at your waist brings you to the route's crux, a few 5.8 slab moves up and right of the first bolt heading to good holds and another bolt. The only disconcerting aspect of this section is the nature of the initial bolt, which is well rusted and looked to be an older button head type. A cam in the crack a body length below would catch you if the bolt failed, but the fall would be painful.

The climbing eases up after the 2nd bolt and becomes run out as you take a long, right trending seam with good holds up for 30-40 feet. It is possible to clip another bolt right before the belay, which is located almost equally between Elephant Walk's anchor and an anchor to climber's right.

Location 

Twenty feet climber's left of Elephant Walk. The short, right-facing corner arches up from a ledge with a tree at its base.

It is easier to start from the bottom of the slab right of Wandering Taoist than to begin 20 feet up at the tree on. A short crack brings you directly beneath the tree and up right to the corner.

Protection 

Small cams for the crack (0.75 and below) and 2-3 draws for the slab. The right trending seam MAY take some micro-wires, but I was unable to place any and I would not count on doing so. It is possible to head right to the Elephant Walk belay, or left to a 3 bolt belay that (as of 2/2016) lacked rap rings. A 60 meter rope will bring you to the tree and ledge where Elephant Walk begins and an easy walk off.


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