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Silly Pinnacle Direct 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A2

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 260', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A2 [details]
FA: Dan D.,
New Route: Yes
Season: Year-round
Page Views: 134
Submitted By: Nathan W. on Mar 10, 2015

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Bryan on the overhang that starts pitch 3. The tag...

Always check road conditions and peregrine closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A great mixed route to a cool summit.

The first pitch starts with a bolt-ladder that leads into a thin crack with two fixed pins. You can stem the tree to reach the first bolt. Continue aiding past the pins and a couple bolts until you get the left-leaning crack. This crack and two of the three bolts afterwards have been free climbed at 5.10, the crack takes small stoppers and TCU's. If you aid the crack you'll still have to make an exciting step out of your Aider to clip the next bolt. The pitch finishes with a low 5th traverse left to the anchor. 5.10 C1F or just C1F. 90'

The second pitch is a short but fun 5.7 fist to hand crack that is stout for it's grade, climb the crack for 40' and traverse left along a ledge and climb up a face with a small crack to the bolted anchor. 5.7 .55'

The third pitch is the cool aid pitch that starts with a large overhang that you surpass by aiding a left-leaning crack through it. That crack mostly accepted cams but the rock quality isn't the best so placements are suspect and an angle piton was helpful. There are two fixed pins as you come out of the overhang, check them before you trust them. A reachy bolt-ladder takes you to the summit. The bolt ladder requires a mantel and generous hero looping for those who aren't 6'+. A2. 85'.

There is a fixed black rope you can use to rap of the back side of the pinnacle into the Gully. 15' rappel.

Location 

The direct route is the first route you'll come across when approaching Danland, look for the bolt-ladder just off the trail on the first large wall you come to.

Protection 

Nuts to 1/2" for the first pitch.
Nuts to 3" with two 3" pieces for the second pitch
TCUs to 1" for third pitch with 1/2-3/4" angles
Possibly a stick-clip if you are 5'7" or less


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