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Silken Slot 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b WI3+

Type:  Trad, Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b WI3+ [details]
Season: Winter
Page Views: 445
Submitted By: Nate K on Dec 27, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Upper pitches

Potential road closures in winter. MORE INFO >>>


Begin below the obvious massive chock stones. Climb the ice/chimney/rock up to a stance below an off width crack and a slab face. This is the crux and protects with a #2 Camelot. Without monos this would feel away harder. Jam up, pull the bulge and belay from cracks. Continue up the gully on WI2 to another section of WI3. Climb this until the ice runs out and then either rap or continue on loose 5.6 hyalite rock to some trees. With a 70m rap from the trees down the gully and then v-thread/ sling stuff or just rap silken


Go to dribbles take a right, walk like 200 feet and it's the obvious mixed line between dribbles and silken falls. Descend by rapping on v-threads/trees or walk over to silken falls and rap down that


Stubbies, screws to comfort, standard rack, small stuff for 1st belay

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By Spitfire
Mar 1, 2016

1. Pitch 1. You can protect the crux by slinging the chockstone. Excellent drytooling hooks!
2. If you decide to continue all way up the slot you will come to a narrow ledge, described in a guidebook. Unprotectable traverse to the right will bring you to trees. I initially tried to climb a corner above the ledge. There was some ice in the corner, but it disappeared soon and I met vertical loose gravel. Abandoned the attempt, returned to the ledge traverse. I do not recommend this way when temperatures above zero.

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