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If you like insecure and very thin face - this route is for you. Bring your best footwork! Start 10 feet right of Little Sheeba where there is a ledge at chest height at the base of the wall. Clip 4 bolts on your way up and left following a left-facing feature that arches towards the crack. At the 4th bolt pull a tenuous boulder problem (crux of the route) to gain access to L.S. Go up L.S. for a few feet (0.75 cam with a long runner) and bust back right to a similar left-facing feature as below. Two more insecure mini-cruxes will get you past another 3 bolts to a broad ledge and a new anchor with mussy hooks.
This route could be easily top roped. Scramble around to the right (4th class) to get to the walk-on ledge or lead L.S. and set up a TR on the right-hand anchor. The second clip is a bit reachy and a long draw or a runner will help with the ropedrag. I'd be curious to know what people think about the grade - 5.11+ was just a wild guess based on doing it in direct sun, so it could be much easier.
10 feet right of Little Sheeba
7 bolts + 0.75 (green) camalot with a long runner. 65 m rope minimum. 60 doesn't make it.
Aug 14, 2015
60 meter rope definitely does not make it to the ground for rappelling or top-roping.
The two-bolt anchor (with mussy hooks) is set higher (and more convenient to reach for setting TR) than the anchor for Ground Effects.