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Lamb Dome
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Chute Me T 
Five Ten, You Wuss T 
Ground Effects S,TR 
Jailbreak Finish T 
Lambda, Lambda, Lambda T 
Lampoon T,TR 
Left North Book T 
Little Sheba Continuation T 
Little Sheeba T,TR 
Nerve Wrack Point T 
On the Lamb T 
Right North Book T 
Silent Shout S 
Tectonomagmatic T 
Tony's Pony T 

Silent Shout 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Vlad Sofiyev, June 2015
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 317
Submitted By: Vlad S on Jun 28, 2015

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

If you like insecure and very thin face - this route is for you. Bring your best footwork! Start 10 feet right of Little Sheeba where there is a ledge at chest height at the base of the wall. Clip 4 bolts on your way up and left following a left-facing feature that arches towards the crack. At the 4th bolt pull a tenuous boulder problem (crux of the route) to gain access to L.S. Go up L.S. for a few feet (0.75 cam with a long runner) and bust back right to a similar left-facing feature as below. Two more insecure mini-cruxes will get you past another 3 bolts to a broad ledge and a new anchor with mussy hooks.

This route could be easily top roped. Scramble around to the right (4th class) to get to the walk-on ledge or lead L.S. and set up a TR on the right-hand anchor. The second clip is a bit reachy and a long draw or a runner will help with the ropedrag. I'd be curious to know what people think about the grade - 5.11+ was just a wild guess based on doing it in direct sun, so it could be much easier.

Location 

10 feet right of Little Sheeba

Protection 

7 bolts + 0.75 (green) camalot with a long runner. 65 m rope minimum. 60 doesn't make it.


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By kenr
Aug 14, 2015

60 meter rope definitely does not make it to the ground for rappelling or top-roping.

The two-bolt anchor (with mussy hooks) is set higher (and more convenient to reach for setting TR) than the anchor for Ground Effects.