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Silent Mind 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Steve Edwards & Arvind Gupta, 1995
Page Views: 2,781
Submitted By: andy patterson on Nov 20, 2007

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About to hit the jug.


Rather than traversing in from the left like its neighbor Aha!, Silent Mind gains the arete via a direct line of attack. Clip a bolt about seven feet above the water, gain a cobbled undercling, power through some fun pockets, then charge past the last bolt for an exciting crux right below the shuts. Finish on a jug just past the shuts.


Shares the same anchor as Aha! but starts direct. The belay is a bit precarious over the water.


6 or 7 bolts. Shuts (new as of November, 2007).

Photos of Silent Mind Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: photo: ab
photo: ab
Rock Climbing Photo: James pulls the mono pocket on the way to the 3rd ...
James pulls the mono pocket on the way to the 3rd ...

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By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Jul 30, 2008

FA: me n' Arvind Gupta, summer of '95 on a 100 degree day.
By ryan mattock
From: calabasas Ca
Apr 29, 2010

best route at the place! only granite in ventura!
By andy patterson
From: Carpinteria, CA
Aug 16, 2010

I climbed this line on a hot Sunday in August—much like the first ascent, I imagine—but even though it was baking in Ojai, the rock on this side of the gorge remained cool, crisp, and perfect. This route continues to be one of the better, more sustained 5.11's at the Gorge. A must do. If you can figure out how to pull your rope from the route without getting it in the creek, I'll buy you a beer.
By Richard Shore
Jun 6, 2011

hardest 5.11 in Wheeler.
By Joe Stern
From: Moab, Utah
Aug 15, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

How to pull your rope from the route without getting it in the creek: the giant M

1. Climb "Cruiser" or "Cobble Climb."
2. Clean the Cruiser/Cobble Climb (C/CC) anchor and rappel.
3. Leave your rope in place through this anchor, with one end just touching the ground and a big pile of rope on the other end.
4. Take the big pile of rope over to Silent Mind (SM), tie into that end, and lead SM.
5. Follower climbs on the same end as the leader in this scheme, so the leader can unclip/reclip draws on the way down to clean up the rope's direction if you choose. Follower climbs, cleans route, rappels/lowers.
6. You have now made a giant M out of your rope. One person now returns to the base of C/CC to pull the rope while another person remains near the base of SM with the middle of the rope in hand to direct it out of the water as the rope-puller begins to pull.
7. Pull the rope from the base of C/CC. First the middle of the rope will go up and the person holding at the base of SM can easily keep this part out of the water. Then, because the two anchors in use are in fact close enough together relative to their height above the water, when the end slips out of the SM anchor it safely avoids the water and lands in the dirt below C/CC after pulling through that anchor.


This technique requires at least a 60m rope.
To keep the middle part of the rope out of the water during the lead of SM, clip it taut to the belayer.
The order of C/CC and SM could of course be reversed.
This technique takes up a lot of real estate, so it is not recommended during crowded periods.
By andy patterson
From: Carpinteria, CA
Aug 18, 2011

Brilliant. Prior to this post, I actually figured out how to pull my rope without getting it wet, and my method was very similar to yours. Great post, Joe.
By Jack Hereford
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 3, 2013

Awesome route! we just yanked the rope really hard after lowering and kept it from getting wet, I however almost went for a swim while jumping back from the wall... the crux was getting back to dry land! Andy I think you owe me a beer:)
By Alex Bury
From: Ojai, CA
Aug 11, 2016

After losing the blocky undercling down low and a couple pieces off the crux, this route's in pretty solid shape. It's worth mentioning that the original line ends at a jug just beyond the anchor (many opt to skip the last few moves with a super reachy clip at the shuts).

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