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Silcone Corner T 
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Silcone Corner 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 380'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]
FA: Grant Hiskes, Pat Ranstrom, Greg Rustler, 8-1982.
Season: summer/early fall
Page Views: 906
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 13, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Near the P2 crux bulge

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

I believe that the name is supposed to be "Silicone Corner".
Near the top of the west face is a prominent right facing corner, rising from a ledge.
Climb 200 ft. of easy 5th class and move left (5.7), to this ledge. Follow the corner to the top.
Walk off.

Protection 

Pro to 3".


Photos of Silcone Corner Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Almost halfway up the corner.
Almost halfway up the corner.
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of the corner.
BETA PHOTO: The start of the corner.
Rock Climbing Photo: Heading up the corner
Heading up the corner
Rock Climbing Photo: Working up the runout but easy 5th class approach ...
Working up the runout but easy 5th class approach ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Silicone Corner
Silicone Corner

Comments on Silcone Corner Add Comment
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By timmaly
Jul 27, 2013

Climbed this two weeks ago. Awesome route! ST describes it as 'burly, old-school 5.7' and we found that to be spot on. The corner is high on the west side of Doda Dome and you need to climb two runout but easy slab pitches (with one short 5.7 problem) to access the base of the dihedral. The corner itself requires a varied mix of hands, offwidth, lieback, stemming and face climbing to ascend. Fun, full-value experience and you are rewarded with stellar views from the top. Walk-off is really easy. Doesn't get climbed very often due to lack of approach trail, but its only ~20 mins past Daff Dome. We saw at least 5 parties clogging up West Crack and we were the only ones on Doda Dome.
By Todd Townsend
From: Bishop, CA
Aug 18, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great route, totally worthy. It would get another star if only the fist two pitches weren't so scrappy.

The route is 5.7, but only if you have man-sized hands as the crack is consistently #2-#3 BD (and sometimes larger) sized. My girlfriend, who's perfect hand size is #1 BD, had a difficult time with this pitch. She got up it, but had to employ her full arsenal of wide crack trickery: handstacks, fists, and funky-chicken armbars. I, on the other hand, find #2's to be perfect, and I can cup #3's. To me, it felt like a burly old school 5.7. To her, it felt much harder.

We had 2 #2's and 2 #3's and it was adequate, but she still had to run it in places. If this is at your limit, I'd recommend tripling up on #2's and #3's and maybe bring a #4 a well. For comparison, I think it's much harder than Bull Dozier.
By Ed Henicle
From: Santa Rosa, CA
Jul 18, 2016

Great route - get on it!

P1 - 5.5R - you can go right then back left to avoid some of the runout

P2 - 5.7+ tricky bulge with pretty good pro

P3 - 5.7+ corner - burly, old school - love it - probably 5.9 at other crags. I was able to get pro at the start of the pitch, so not runout. Take 2 #3 and one #4

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