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YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Teodoro Sifuentes and Guido Monti
Page Views: 203
Submitted By: Monty on Jan 11, 2015

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I'm writing this up the way I'm guessing most folks climb the route which entails traversing left to the Sifuentes-Weber instead of climbing/aiding the 13b roof.

P1 (7 25m): Start the same as the Sifuentes-Weber, near the base of the Aguja Frey apron up an easy right facing dihedral. Belay at a bolted stance below a steep hand crack.

P2 (11- PG-13 45m): An excellent lead! Step right from the anchor and climb the ever thinning dihedral with a "6b+" crux passing a bolt... you will do some rock climbing here. An optional belay exists at the base of the 13b/c1 roof, or you can traverse left into the end of the 2nd pitch of the Sifuentes-Weber and belay at a bolted anchor. 6b+ seems like quite a sandbag on this one...

P3 (9- 20m): Climb the third pitch dihedral of the Sifuentes-Weber for 35ft then traverse right for 40 ft to a bolted anchor under a crack in a headwall.

P4 (10- 25m): Climb the crack in the headwall until it jogs left. Step right, clip a bolt and enjoy the steep jugs to the top. Belay at a bolted anchor out left.

Descent: While it's possible to rap the north face in 3 raps with a 70m, it's best to do a quick scramble around to the south face and make a single 30m rap into the 4th class descent gully.


Standard rack to #1.

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By greg t
From: Chevy, Silverado
Feb 21, 2017

I heard some holds broke off on P2. Definitely felt hard for 6b+... even in Frey. At least there is a shiny bolt at the crux.

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