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Morning Glory Spire
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Book of Dissent T 
Brown Flake T 
Chimney T 
Crack of Doom T 
Easiest Route T 
Fall Line S 
Morning Glory S 
Power Tools S 
Reach for the Sky T,S 
Siesta S 
Skyline T 
Strategic Defense T 
Veal Cage S 


YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Dave Bingham, Ted Thompson 1988
Page Views: 1,305
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jun 14, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Siesta .11b


This is the first sport climb to the right of Crack of Doom. This is a tough send at 5.11b. I saw a guy warm up on Stategic Defense and onsight Crack of Doom, but he got shut down on this climb. Go figure...

It is a little runout at the top.



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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jul 30, 2006

The book says the first, high clip is easy. I disagree... a fall from the move to get under the bolt would result in serious injury, and it is not easy. On the ledge to the right of the bolt I found a convenient stick for stick-clipping - apparently I'm not the first to find this clip too much to swallow.

Once engaged on the arete, expect challenging, balancey climbing - particularly the opening moves. This is a very difficult onsight for the grade (I didn't get it), but it is definitely easier and less scary then Strategic Defense! Two ledges enroute offer convenient rests.

A worthy tick if you're in the neighborhood!

Gear: 5 bolts. A #0.5 Camalot could be useful between the 2nd and 3rd bolt, and a larger nut helps protect the first clip.
By 426
Mar 21, 2007

Andy is right about the bolts, we did this thing when it was rated 11a (iirc) and it is a stiffy even for b.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 1, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I thought it was no harder than Fire Water, the other 11b I did there. The "crux" was not really that bad (flashed that, second route ever at the city, warming up). I also think the difficulty of the first climp was reach dependent, as I had no issue with my albatros arms. However, the second clip is on small holds flash-pumped me out. I ended up hanging from the jugs higher on the route!
By Bad Sock Puppet
Sep 9, 2009

A decent bolted line that'll leave you scratching your head at the rating. Actually only one move felt harder than .11b. Holds of all shapes and sizes, oh and don't fall going to that first clip.
By Jeremy Noring
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 20, 2015
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

This climb is very obviously reach dependent--at ~5' 9" span, I barely reach on the opening moves. I think that mostly explains the disagreement in grade. I thought everything past the opening moves was fairly easy, and the top is pretty much jug pulling interspersed with mild slab. The opening moves are going to range anywhere from insanely hard to trivial depending on your reach.
By Jeremy Noring
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 20, 2015
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

Oh, and the first bolt is pure idiocy--blowing that clip would be dangerous, and a stick-clip is probably wise if you're in the City for fun/exercise instead of cheap thrills.

In general, the bolt placement is poor (they're all about a foot higher than they should be) and generally detracts from an otherwise stellar line.
By dave bingham
Oct 28, 2015

Sorry about the high first bolt. It seemed easy at the time! I will see about a fix. PS, I'm 5'6".
By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Sep 22, 2016

A great route in my book. But I'm also 6' 2" with a +2. Bring a stick clip or small cams to soften the sporty start.

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