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East Gate Buttress
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YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Drew Bedford 2005
New Route: Yes
Season: spring/fall
Page Views: 1,431
Submitted By: drewford on Mar 29, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: sidewinder, and wild things

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


Face climbing past one bolt leads to this diagonaling splitter. The crack leads through a bulge (crux) and continues through sustained .5" locks to a 2-bolt belay.

Rating is subjective based on finger size. The rock is gritty, bring tape.


Hike north up the gully from Negro Modelo, skirting the bulk of the East Gate. After some 3rd class (approx. 500 feet), Sidewinder appears on the left as a prominent diagonal crack.


Standard thin rack, nothing bigger than 2". Bring plenty of .5" cams--minimum of 5, more for comfort. Small nuts helpful.

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By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 9, 2013

BURLY. There are two bolts at the start and 3 pins in the crack. You'll need a handful of micro cams to supplement the fixed gear, e.g., 4-5 purple to blue metolius. Nothing bigger is needed (see next sentence). You could use a #3 camalot after the last pin, but the climbing is 5.8 and not that runout. Good luck!

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