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lily figuring out the crux of sidewinder
This crimpy problem is one of the hardest in the Zoo Area. It starts on Good Rips, goes left around the corner (under roof), and finishes on Edges. Sit start on the good jug(s) and immediately toss a heel up with your hands so that you can grab a bad crimp out left with your left hand on the outside of the tunnel. Don't hit your head as you move your right hand to a crimp just below your left. Now that you're hanging horizontally, make the crux move up to a good edge on the face. Control the swing, establish yourself on the face, and finish straight up.
On the Mushroom Boulder in the Zoo...
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Oct 30, 2015
rating: V7-8 7B
I nearly did this on my first go today, but stupidly fell on the good edge. Shortly thereafter, the good crimp that you fall into ripped off the wall in my hand. (Still not sure how I broke a hold that was so small it was nearly impossible to generate outward pull on it.) So, after that, I had to figure out a completely different way to do this climb. I know many people considered it to be hard v7 before. It's definitely noticeably harder now and, as a result, it might be closer to v8.
By Graham O.
Sep 4, 2016
I have only seen one person do this since the breakage, and it was Keith (who can send v10). He went directly to th footholds for Edges and crossed over to the good edge. It was given v7/8 in his video, but it's pretty hard and I can definitely see it being v8.