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Sidewalk Chalk 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Crit Conrad, Alan Watts
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 102
Submitted By: CritConrad on May 16, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Line showing where to cut left

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

An awesome new variation to "Edge of the Road". Start by doing the entire crux sequence of On the Road to about the half way mark on that route. Put a runner on your last piece of gear and move up and left on good holds to a stance on the arete. From here, get ready to execute hard and sometimes funky moves at every bolt. Great stances allow casual clips, but the movement in between is difficult and sometimes perplexing.

Above the last bolt you can place a small wire or ball nut to take a little sting out of the last moves. Everything culminates in a pumping sequence to and through a small crack (which is also your last gear) before easy terrain to a new anchor on a pedestal about 10 feet up and left of On the Road's Anchor

Location 

Start as for On the Road and finish on a new 2 bolt anchor above

Protection 

Gear to .5 inches, possibly 3 in the .5 camalot/orange metolius size. Optional blue ball nut or small offset nut, and 3 bolts.


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