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Sidewalk Buttress

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Sidewalk Buttress Rock Climbing 

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Submitted By: richard magill on Sep 7, 2006
This Afternoon

42° | 27°

50° | 37°

49° | 31°

41° | 28°

37° | 27°

35° | 26°
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BETA PHOTO: Lower Psychoactive- Shady side of Leigh Creek Cany...


A really fun place to do long and challenging sport routes. Routes may go as long as 160 feet in a single overhanging mega-pitch.

The stone here is a bit out of the ordinary as well. Super-pocketed. Not bullet hard like most of the canyon, not compact like at the Dry wall. Best description would be sort of like swiss cheese rock. You won't find any lack of things to pull on, it will just be a matter of keeping the pump down.

This is one of the earliest crags to go in at Tensleep. Stan Price bolted several routes here back in the 80's. There are actually lots of bolts on the routes, so don't expect big run outs.

For my taste, the stone here is not as good as up at the Mondo Beyondo area, but if you want to hit some steep stuff lower in the canyon (like on a cold day), this is definitely a place you will enjoy. And just a trip up the 160 foot "Where the Sidewalk Ends" (11b) is worth a visit all by itself.

The crag faces southwest so it is shady in the morning and sunny in the afternoon - the heat is typically sweltering late in the day. Plan on hitting this in the AM and then pop over to all the new routes on the other side of Leigh Creek for the afternoon.

Getting There 

At the very bottom of the canyon, down around 4000 feet. Park at or near the campground at the bottom of the Canyon, and follow an obvious trail for a few hundred yards up to the cliff.

Pretty easy to spot - about 200 feet tall and overhanging with bolts, chalk and all that.

Climbing Season

For the Ten Sleep Canyon area.

Weather station 10.4 miles from here

5 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Sidewalk Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sidewalk Buttress:
Where the Sidewalk Ends   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 160'   
Sheep Reaction   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 125'   
If Dreams Were Thunder   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 80'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sidewalk Buttress

Featured Route For Sidewalk Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: Zack Nadiak firing this sweet climb!

If Dreams Were Thunder 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  Wyoming : Ten Sleep Canyon : Sidewalk Buttress
Superb route up the steep headwall left of the "Sheep Reaction" arete. Tiptoe up easy but crumbly terrain to reach a very high first bolt. Then get psyched for great climbing using arm-eating jugs and positive pockets, culminating until a distinct crux pulling onto the upper face on slightly thinner holds. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Wyoming

Photos of Sidewalk Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Psychoactive Wall- Shady side of Leigh Creek Canyo...
BETA PHOTO: Psychoactive Wall- Shady side of Leigh Creek Canyo...

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