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YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Scott Ayers and Eden Masters ('90)
Page Views: 1,890
Submitted By: Bryan G on Jun 24, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (55)
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This awesome climb has it all. Start up a left-trending ramp to reach the first bolt. Then get ready for an exciting hand traverse, a locker finger crack, an exposed mantle, and a bunch of other really fun climbing.


just right of He She


9 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. A set of TCU's or nuts is useful for protecting the finger crack at the top. Runout without at least one supplementary piece.

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By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Jul 1, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great route. As far as gear though, the top is a little runout, but its not so bad and the fall is clean. Thus, I don't bring gear for that part (though if you want gear, as Bryan states above, finger sized gear is what you would want). However, I would recommend a #3 Camalot for the initial portion of the climb because you are low enough to the ground at that point that blowing the moves up and left towards the ramp could be problematic. Just my 2 cents.
By Aerili
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 25, 2010

Great route-- Scott Ayers puts up a bunch of em! Many thanks to him for all the superb lines he finds and the excellent and well-placed hardware he installs. (Crystal Crag also offers many top-notch Ayers routes, not to mention all the routes of his I have climbed in SoAz.)

For gear, I only used a #3 and a micro-cam near the top.
By Kyle Townsend
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 15, 2012

This is not a run-out climb, I did not even consider placing any pro. Should be categorized as sport, it would be a shame for someone not to get on this incredible line because they don't have trad gear.
By Aerili
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 21, 2012

Every individual's physical ability and mental comfort is different. I do not think the recommendation for a couple pieces is at all out of line, especially considering most people will have a rack with them at this crag anyway.
By rex parker
From: las vegas n.v
Jul 24, 2013

um .yeah bring the gear. after a few bolts, 1/3 of the way up it gets a little easier. yes. But I believe the reason their is no bolts in this section is because their is a gorgeous right leaning crack that's just asking for a cam. and if you miss the next bolt or fall near it you will absolutely hit the ledge thats ten feet off the deck.. 30 feet to a ledge... bring a few cams is what I say. And no its not a sport climb. because . well yeah taking a long clean whipper can be fun if stuffs run out. and its a clean fall. adds excitement.. In this case... you will hit the ledge and go splat..

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