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East Gate Buttress
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Ankle Biters S 
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Clay, Like Dirt S 
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El Guapo T,S 
El Pipe Dream T 
El Segundo T 
Flakes, The T 
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Keelhaul T 
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Only Human Var. T 
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Ripping Wall, The T 
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To Air is Human T 
Wild Things T 
Unsorted Routes:

Sidekick 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Clay Watson, Drew Bedford 4/2014
New Route: Yes
Season: Srping/Fall
Page Views: 282
Submitted By: drewford on Nov 15, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

P1 - Climb the first pitch of The Ripping Wall, just left of Sidewinder. 5.8, 80'

P2 - traverse west across slabs to join a line of left- leaning cracks, then up to a short finger and hand crack to a 2-bolt belay at the bottom of Wild Things. 5.8. 60’.

P3 - Climb the obvious left-sweeping ramp to the left of Wild Things on small cams and nuts to a hand-sized piece or two as the face arcs right and into a short easy chimney. At the top of the chimney, place a directional and walk 15 feet down and left to the belay for the Flakes. 5.6 PG-13. 60’

This is a quick way to access The Flakes.

Location 

Rappel with a 70m rope.

Protection 

Standard double rack to 2.5"


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By tenesmus
Jun 14, 2016

This might be the quickest and easiest way to the top of the Flakes.
By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
May 1, 2017

Not a bad route, but not great. Discontinuous features with the odd move thrown in there to keep you honest. Might clean up with more traffic, but not likely. Would recommend to those who've climbed everything else or want a quick approach to the Flakes or Wildthings.
By greggrylls
From: Salt Lake City
Oct 12, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

While I agree with Greg on some points I will say this route wasn't bad at all. We were using it to access the flakes and I enjoyed the route in it's own right. It's well protected and a cool location. This climb get's an extra star for being such quick access to the flakes. We were up and down in under 3 hours I believe. Thanks Clay
By zoso
Oct 12, 2017

The finish on P2 has 2 options. Right has a 5.9 move and left is more forgiving at 5.8. Nice to have another moderate multi-picture route.
By greggrylls
From: Salt Lake City
Oct 12, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

It's very pitchuresque
By zoso
Oct 12, 2017

Booooo.

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