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Side Tracked 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Josh Mucci and Jeff Scheuerell
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 339
Submitted By: Jeff Scheuerell on Apr 26, 2012

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  • Side Tracked 

    So far there are 4 pitches to this route but the plan is to cotinue up another pitch or two. The first 2 are fairly easy and can be linked with a 60m rope. Climb the jumbled buttress right of the giant corner, 30' rigth of Simon the Dog, same start as Wretched in Stone, to a flat ledge. There are now bolts here. From the ledge work up and left into a big Chimney(Wretched in Stone). Once in the chimney keep your eye out for a bolt up and rigth. Climb to then past the bolt then move rigth to another bolt and continue right to a big ledge with a bolted anchor. P3 the fun begins, traverses right into an obvious left facing corner. The corner starts out wide (optional #5 Camalot) then turns to a #3Camolot size crack for a ways then narrows to tight hands and fingers. Before the crack ends step out of the corner to the rigth and clip a bolt that protects 5.10ish climbing into dicontinuous cracks that lead to a sloping ledge (#2Camolot here)and a bolted anchor a bit farther left. P4 moves right to a thin finger crack that angles sharply right. Follow the crack(very fun) to its end. From it's end climb past a bolt, a pin and two more bolts. The crux is at the last bolt. After passing the bolt sling a small horn and search for a gear placement to protect your second(I was able to get an ok offset nut and a red C3), before traversing right to the, for now, last bolted anchor. 2 rope rap down and right a bit to Tweet this, then 1 rope to the base of Tweet and another down or 2 ropes down. Fun to tr Tweet This.

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