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Moderate Mecca
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Side Effects 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike Ward 1991
Season: All except summer
Page Views: 5,679
Submitted By: Karsten Duncan on Jan 28, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (72)
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Patrick Hudson throws the crux move on a chilly da...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


This sporty route climbs a short crack and then huecos up a large detached boulder that guards the entrance to Moderate Mecca.

The lower crack could be protected by natural gear but contains several bolts. I would recommend unclipping the first bolt after passing it to reduce drag. This climb is almost a one move wonder but the rest of the climbing is so good you don't care. Overall this climb presents a fun jaunt.


7 bolts
Chains at top

Photos of Side Effects Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris G. on Side Effects
Chris G. on Side Effects
Rock Climbing Photo: climbing till you can't climb anymore.
climbing till you can't climb anymore.
Rock Climbing Photo: moving into the crux move
moving into the crux move
Rock Climbing Photo: My first attempt on Side Effects.
My first attempt on Side Effects.
Rock Climbing Photo: Side Effects
Side Effects
Rock Climbing Photo: Almost there..
Almost there..
Rock Climbing Photo: me leading Side Effects in the Moderate Mecca at R...
me leading Side Effects in the Moderate Mecca at R...
Rock Climbing Photo: Karsten tops out on the only small holds on the ro...
Karsten tops out on the only small holds on the ro...
Rock Climbing Photo: Karsten in side view on Side Effects.
Karsten in side view on Side Effects.

Comments on Side Effects Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 12, 2017
By Matt McMurray
From: Castle Rock, CO
Aug 7, 2006
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I thought this route was great fun. Following a well-protected dyno in the middle, the overhanging huecos make for a great climb! If you climb too slowly, the pump will catch you before the top...
By Robbie the Dog
Dec 31, 2007

This climb was fun, but a little more than average dirty/crumbly towards the middle and top.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 13, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

first of all, .10b this isn't- its .10d for sure. Second, whats with the weird non-finish? The anchors are essentially reached from the ledge below, despite the headwall thats easily climbed between. weird. good route, though. the less than bold may want a yellow alien or purple camalot to protect the first 15' or so.
By Fink Fink
From: Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
Mar 10, 2010
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

For the brave, the crux move on the roof sets up reasonably well for a figure-4. Even with a bolt at your waist, it's a little heady though.
By smassey
From: CO
May 23, 2010

BTW, the bolt protecting the crux throw/figure four/A2 move is junk (ie, tolerable if you were in the Fisher towers). john, we should hit that one sometime before it cools down enough to climb here again.
By Socka
From: Bloomington, IN
Dec 1, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Very nice, I would agree with .10 d if you do not have any beta. 3rd and the last bolts are loose. Btw the climb is not over until you stand up on the top of the pinackle.
By matthysj
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Dec 8, 2012
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Pulling roof seems harder than 10+. Options seem to be a big dyno to rail or heal hook to undercling way left of bolt. Aiding on the quick draw was my method of choice.
By Edward Pyune
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 21, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Finally got my redpoint! As John mentioned, a purple C4 is nice to protect before the first bolt. Using 2 double shoulder length draws (1 for the cam) and a single shoulder length draw for the first bolts before the roof is great for rope drag. 10c for the crux move, 10d for the whole climb, as there are still quite a few moves (albeit juggy) till you reach the top.

The bolt at the crux move is a spinner
By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Nov 26, 2013

This thing felt harder than comparable .11- sport routes of similar character at RR. Very fun climbing, but still quite difficult.

As far as the condition of the bolts:

Bolt #3 (crux bolt) is a spinner. Final bolt before the anchors is protruding from the rock 1/4"
By Cunning Linguist
Nov 26, 2013

Glue ins+calico softness=no more spinners. Anyone game to replace them?
By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Nov 27, 2013

Killis, I'd be game to help out - if you don't have ASCA glue-ins I'd be willing to chip in for some. This route is super fun!
By MN norske
From: Henderson
Nov 30, 2013
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Got my red point on this after the 2nd attempt. If you are solid at this grade have no worries but if you are pushing the grade worry about the 3rd bolt (crux) and last (crazy unsafe as in i was pushing it back in and it would slide out a 1/2 inch). This climb is epic but needs now bolts. I would help out as mentioned in recent post to replace them.
By JF1
From: Las Vegas
Jan 15, 2014

Thanks to a donation from the ASCA and the LVCLC all of the pro bolts on Side Effects are now 6 1/2" SS FIXE glue ins.
By Xavier Wasiak
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 16, 2014

Adam Floyd is the man!!!!!! You rock buddy!
By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Jan 16, 2014

^^^Xavier, that is a FACT. Thank you for the replacement work, Adam!
By Adal Bermann
From: San Diego, California
Jan 3, 2017
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Has a hold broken since this route was rated?

This climb was more difficult than 5.11's in the same area. Or perhaps I was missing beta? The crux requires traversing left on poor holds and slippery heel hooks over head, or a dyno way up high to a hold on the right.

Not a 5.10 by any stretch of the imagination.
By Christian H
Apr 12, 2017

Thought this route had super fun climbing! I thought the chains were a little high, and getting to them was uncharacteristic with the rest of the route. (maybe it makes the rap cleaner?)

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