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SickyGnarGnar 

SickyGnarGnar 

Hueco: V4 Font: 6B

   
Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
FA: R. Tyler Gross
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 167
Submitted By: Timbo Stillinger on Mar 22, 2015

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Description 

Fun line on cracked boulder that is totally rad! Not in Oceans 11 or the Steve Edwards book, so correct me if its already been sent.

Worth doing. Left hand start on small pocket just to the right of the crack closet to the road. Right hand start on large jug pocket below the next crack to the right. Aim for the two crimp/gaston features above your left hand and top out straight up or trend left, both rad.

Location 

Located on the south face of the cracked boulder between the two V0 crack climbs.

Protection 

depends on your style but probably just some shorts and a t-shirt.


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By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Carpinteria, CA
Mar 22, 2015

Way to put this area on the database! It's a modest boulder, to be sure, but worth noting. Jake Novotny and I spent several sessions in 2012 doing every possible problem we could think of on that boulder (including some R to L traversing nonsense that was fairly hard), so while I can't claim we did EXACTLY what you did, I'm 79% certain we did that problem. I'm not gonna push the issue, and you can name it whatever you want. What's more, someone probably did it before us, too.
By Timbo Stillinger
Mar 23, 2015

Yeah I'm sure you and others have done the moves many times as it is in contention for the easiest easy boulder to get to in all of SB. If the name sticks rad, if not, no worries. We were shocked and stoked at how fun it was when we were goofing around on it the other day and how going straight up from the pockets on its own made a for a sweet little problem!

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