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sickness and inconsistent performance
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Oct 30, 2015
Been a bit sick lately and this definitely filters into my climbing - one day I am floating up 5.12s and another day I am struggling on 5.9s.

I have been given advice to "mean" my performance - try to force myself up harder stuff on bad days and don't push too far on low gravity days. I.e. if my performance bracket is from 5.9 to 5.12, then I should try to work on 5.10s or at most, 5.11s. Does this make sense?

I am having trouble retaining muscle mass, so a V5 vertical crimp ladder feels easier for me then a V1 roof. How much am I gonna screw up my climbing by sticking to angles and hold types that are easier for me? I think I know the answer but ...
Nivel Egres
From New York, NY
Joined Dec 10, 2014
21 points
Oct 31, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Old Lady H
Sorry you're not well! I can't offer anything in the way of climbing specific training advice, but there are plenty of folks on here who can. Hopefully you'll hear from them shortly.

I'm kinda guessing that "a bit sick" might be understatement, and perhaps you've got something more long term to fight than just a bug. I just wanted to cheer you on, at least! As someone oldish who works with very old folks, my two cents is to really focus on retaining what you have, to the best of your abilities at the time. Be really vigilant with good nutrition, and do what you can to avoid injuries. Maybe something active in addition to climbing? Nice warm pool? Longish walks?

Last, cut yourself some slack, if your performance isn't up to snuff. Yeah, duh, if you're backing off to what you can manage, you're going to be "losing", if you choose to look at it that way. Enjoy, as you can, and focus on what you've got. Best wishes, H.
Old lady H
From Boise, Idaho
Joined Aug 24, 2015
61 points
Oct 31, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: KenR below Wahoo gullies
There seems to be some evidence that your muscles and tendons sort of "remember" how strong they once were -- so it's much quicker to get them back up again to your accustomed strength, than it took to train them up to it the first time.

I have no idea why "averaging" is a good strategy when you're sick. It's surely not what I do when I feel healthy. Anyway some sort of climbing-specific stress on your muscles + tendons is a good thing - provided you don't injure something - (so maybe that's the point of "averaging"?).

Ken
kenr
Joined Oct 29, 2010
7,293 points


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