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Sickle Crack Boulder
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Sickle Crack T,TR 

Sickle Crack 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 20'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 3,800
Submitted By: Marc Kajut on Jan 29, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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Cameron on the Sickle Crack. Photo by Elizabeth B...

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>


Sickle Crack has a prominent sickle shaped crack on its South side. The climb may be climbed using pure offwidth technique (5.8+) or lieback (5.10+).


Standard rack plus LARGE cams. Two bolt anchor.

Photos of Sickle Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sickle Crack
BETA PHOTO: Sickle Crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Sickle Crack (5.8+)
Sickle Crack (5.8+)

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By G.McCay
From: Galloway, NJ
Mar 26, 2007

5.8(OW) on a TR from 1981 to 1996...what happened?
By Marc Kajut
From: San Diego, CA
Mar 27, 2007

I'll suggest a 5.8+ as I personally think it's harder than 5.8 but easier than 5.9; however, since '96 many other climbers have climbed SC at 5.9 and accepted Kennedy's upgrade from Brueckner's published rating. Consensus says...
By rocky233
Jul 1, 2009

I've always considered Sickle the 5.8 "standard" for OW cracks, and that's as a lead climb.
When the gym climbers leave the safety of their nest, they are very strong but totally lack crack skills. The upward creep in crack ratings the last decade is the result of their frustration and ineptitude.
By Sking
Oct 3, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Really cool offwidth. The knee jams are bomber. Starts with hands, then fists, then stacking hands, then chicken wings. There is one hanger on top of the rock that I put a runner on to gain access to the TR bolts. Glad somebody put that hanger there because it would be a little spicy to set up the TR and walk off without it.
By Addem Bursh
May 22, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

One 4 inch cam, and one 5 inch cam, should take you home.
By MariaZ
Jul 23, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Led this today. I used a BD 3, 5 and 6 but I felt a little sketched out since I tried to lead it without ever climbing it before. I think you could get away with a 3 and a 5 if you wanted to protect it reasonably. Crack takes gear exceedingly well.

I think a 5.9 is fair and is consistant with other offwidth Woodson ratings. I think its as hard as big grunt (5.9) (not counting the beginning move), harder than the tower two chimney (5.8) and easier than the crucible (5.10c).

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