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Sick Puppy 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Mike Darrah & John Aughinbaugh in June 1990
Season: Spring through Fall
Page Views: 346
Submitted By: Mark Rolofson on Apr 13, 2015

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  • Description 

    This is a difficult slab climb on perfect rock reminiscent of Vedauwoo with tiny edges & a few sloping knobs. Climb up to a small overlap to reach the 1st bolt on the slab above. A tricky move leads over the overlap. Then traverse right to the blunt arete & 2nd bolt. Tiny holds lead up to 3rd bolt. An very insecure step left gains a good stance on a large sloping knob. Crux moves lead up the left side of the blunt arete or rounded prow to a small quartz knob. Continue up the arete. As the angle lessens, the tiny holds disappear, & friction moves lead to the last bolt. Finish up the right side of the arete to gain a ledge & the anchor. If you love the adrenaline & insecure nature of desperate slab climbing, you'll love this route.

    Location 

    This is right of War Drums. Leave the aqueduct trail, & walk uphill along a short wall through the trees for 50 feet to the base of the route.

    Protection 

    5 (4?) bolts / 2 Fixe rings.


    Comments on Sick Puppy Add Comment
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    By Mark E Dixon
    From: Sprezzatura, Someday
    May 5, 2017

    I'm pretty sure there are only 4 bolts.

    The move past the first overlap is entertaining, as are several others higher.

    After clipping bolt 3, I found a sequence which also uses holds to the right of the arete. Not sure how Mark stays left.

    Really a fun route, very clean, deserves more traffic. Try it sometime, when headed to or from Frisky.

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