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The Umbrella Boulder
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Sick Man Says "Deadpoint" 

Hueco: V4 Font: 6B

   
Type:  Boulder, 8'
Original:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
FA: 
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 643
Submitted By: Andrew Phillips on Jul 6, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: sick man says

Description 

Sit Start- Dynamic Movement Right Hand to Remain on Rail Foot to remain on Start foot.
Right Hand: Rail Crimp
Left Hand: Undercling
Variation 1: Gaston First Crimp then Deadpoint/ Dyno
Variation 2: Gaston Second Crimp then Deadpoint/ Dyno

No Arete.

Location 

20 Feet to the right of the Umbrella Boulder.. Its in between Umbrella and Block Boulder

Protection 

Crash Pad and Spotter


Photos of Sick Man Says "Deadpoint" Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Variation 2  Blue are starting holds, red are the ...
BETA PHOTO: Variation 2 Blue are starting holds, red are the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Variation 1  Blue are starting holds, red are the ...
Variation 1 Blue are starting holds, red are the ...

Comments on Sick Man Says "Deadpoint" Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jake Perry
From: Concord, NH
Jul 7, 2016

Seems like a fun variation, I think the starting on the low large flat rail and dynoing straight to the lip would definitely go. I'll have to try it when I get out there again!

Also I'm pretty sure this boulder is just clumped with Umbrella because it'a easier to just find the umbrella boulder first, and it's so close by that it might be confusing/annoying if it were listed as its own area.
By Brad Fauteux
From: Henniker, NH
Jul 7, 2016

I'll have to hop on this next time I'm there!
By Mike Davies
Jul 15, 2016

I would agree that variation 1 is a V7.
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Jul 19, 2016
rating: V4 6B

Hey guys, while I do think these are fun variations I do not think they are v6 or v7. Granted I am tall, but I believe variation 1 is v4+ and variation 2 is v4.

Also I couldn't find the undercling you listed as starting left hand, so I used a chalked crimp below the big rail. However, I wonder why you wouldn't just start matched on the rail?

Check out the photo's I loaded and make sure i have the variations correct, maybe i got something wrong and that accounts for the difference?
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Jul 20, 2016
rating: V4 6B

Hey Andrew, I started fully sitting and did not use the big block for feet. On variation two I went up with my right hand which seemed to be a bit easier than the bump method.

Did the photo's I upload look correct from what you did?

I switched my suggested grades to 4 and 4+ after some more thought. Regardless they are fun variations to climb when you are in the area.

The grades are just compared to other things in the area. These moves are easier than 'Knock Your Block Off', 'Child Prodigy', 'Neptune's Throne' which are all solid in the v6 grade, so that was my thought process in suggesting grades.

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