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Sick for Toys T 

Sick for Toys 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: there is a story here...
Page Views: 3,217
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Jan 1, 2005

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On the 4th pitch, the slab steepens...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


This route would probably be quite popular if any of the guidebooks actually told you where it is. It is NOT near the Western Spaces Wall. Approach by going up the south fork of Black Velvet Canyon, past the start of Epinephrine, to the fork at the white slab. Here, take the right branch up the wash along the north side of Corduroy Ridge. About two or three hundred yards past the white slab, the canyon widens and there is a large beautiful slab on the left side. Sick for Toys is the thin fingertip crack on the left side of the slab.

Pitch 1: A broken ledge system stretches across the lower left side of the slab, beneath a few layers of roof-arches. Start below the right end of these ledges, just to the left of a bush. The boulder that simplified the opening moves has been washed away, so the first fifteen feet involve some balancy 5.9 with a bad landing. Once you get onto the easy rock, go a long way to the left. When leftward progress is finally blocked by the arches (maybe 50 feet or so), climb over them to a bush. Go right and up on easy face climbing for quite some distance to a bolted belay station at the base of the thin crack. Other than the first few moves, the climbing is 5.5 and under. The issues of rope drag, spotting the leader, and protecting the second provide some challenge on this otherwise easy pitch.

Pitch 2: Climb straight up the crack (5.8) to a hanging belay at two more bolts. (From this belay, look down and right about 30 feet to a bolted station on the blank face. This can be reached in a long rappel from the top of the route, and allows a somewhat straighter descent.)

Pitch 3: Continue up the vanishing crack (5.10b), passing 4 bolts to another belay station on a tiny ledge.

Pitch 4: Climb up past a bolt, jog briefly right to surmount the roof, then continue up the finger crack above. A second bolt protects difficult climbing (5.10d) to easier rock and the top anchor.


Wires, small cams up to #3.

Photos of Sick for Toys Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the top of the second pitch thin crack
Nearing the top of the second pitch thin crack
Rock Climbing Photo: On pitch 3 the crack starts to disappear.  The sli...
On pitch 3 the crack starts to disappear. The sli...
Rock Climbing Photo: The thin crack on pitch 2 goes up a very clean sla...
The thin crack on pitch 2 goes up a very clean sla...
Rock Climbing Photo: At the far left end of the the first pitch travers...
At the far left end of the the first pitch travers...
Rock Climbing Photo: The first pitch starts with some friction moves to...
The first pitch starts with some friction moves to...
Rock Climbing Photo: This photo shows the Sick For Toys area.
BETA PHOTO: This photo shows the Sick For Toys area.

Comments on Sick for Toys Add Comment
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By chad umbel
Jan 1, 2006

Climbed this route in February of 05 with my brother. Very high-quality slab climb on perfect stone. Be prepared for hard slab moves on the last pitch. Also beware of old quarter-inch bolts for anchors.

Definitely needs to be re-equipped with fresh bolts for belays. We cut away all the old tattered webbing on the anchors and replaced with new slings and carabiners.
By C Miller
From: CA
Mar 12, 2006

The name comes from a song on "Life's Too Good", a 1988 release from the Sugarcubes.
By Boneware
Jan 11, 2008

There is an alternative bolted start which I felt went at maybe 5.10+ or so. It is pretty height dependant. Rather than doing the traditional start mentioned in the description by Larry, look for a line of bolts to the left. If I remember correctly there are 3 or 4 and they take a more direct line up to the bushes. Slinging the bush above the last bolt or placing a piece might be a good idea to protect your second. There are a couple thin moves above that bolt and if you swing out left there are not to many holds on that slab.

I have not done the original start but the bolted variation is fun and gets you ready for more thin technical slab to come.
By Josh Audrey
Jun 5, 2009

threw new slings on the top of the second pitch and the last rappel today.
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 10, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13

The bolted line to the left on the start of the first pitch actually also has bolts over the roofs for a direct line to the first belay at about a 5.10+/11a grade and offers less risk of a big swing to the second climber. The route is a true slab climb as opposed to the usual steeper edge climbing more typical in Red Rocks. Fun, thin, and old school ratings.
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Sep 19, 2011

Any info on the descent?
I'm assuming you rappel?
One rope or 2?

By Josh Janes
General Admin
Sep 25, 2011

There are two options for descent:

A) With two ropes the first rap, from the top of P4, takes you to an anchor out on the center of the face. From here a second rap brings you back to the ground.

B) With one 70m rope rap from the top of P4 to the top of P3. From here make a second rap down the face to a bolted anchor out right. From here a third rap continues down the face to another bolted anchor and from there a fourth and final rap reaches the ground.

On 9/2011 the remaining bad bolts at the anchors were replaced with 1/2" ASCA hardware and the two rap stations were improved with quicklinks. All the pro bolts appear to be in good shape. There are still two old studs at the second anchor which need to be pulled and patched.

This route is very difficult for the grade but absolutely awesome. The direct start, 10d, is the way to go.
By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
May 7, 2012

This formation has an east aspect and gets a lot of sun this time of year.
By Tracy Martin
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 4, 2015

This route is awesome. Like Erik says, wear your 'brave pants'. Can be rapped with 1 70m rope. The route came into the shade about 2:30.
By david s wilson
Mar 8, 2017

Great route !

P1 - Good pitch but broken up a bit. Look for the bolt at the lip of the roof for where to cross. 10d single move at top of initial bolts. Add directional for second above.
P2 - Beautiful pitch! 10b
P3 - Get ready for a slider "brave pants". Think Glacier Point Apron. Another great pitch. 11a/b
P4 - Clean and great again. Good wires and small gear. 11a

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