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Sick For Sleeping 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Chris Beh, Paul Glover, Matt Samet, Owen Silver
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 1,031
Submitted By: Chris Beh on Apr 9, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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  • Description 

    This route provides a nice step up in difficulty as a warm-up from the adjacent 11a, Hippopotamus. The crux is at the bottom of the steep, upper section after the easy approach bit, so be ready to crank immediately! Stage your belay on the ground where the Undertow approach ledge begins.

    Scramble up the approach ledge and before the ledge traverses left, while you are still to the right of the big tree look up for the first bolt just above. It's only 5.5 at the bulge, but at least you have a bolt between you and your belayer 30 feet below. Move up 5.0- climbing to the steep stuff above and the second bolt (2nd bolt is a long, fat one in case you notice it is the only thing between you and a 50 foot ground fall...easy to clip). The initial moves up the steep rock are mid 5.11. Then pumpy but slightly easier climbing past two more bolts leads to a rest below the final bulge. It is super fun, 5.11 crimping up the mini-tufa final bulge and the crux reaching the final jug.

    Location 

    This is currently the right most route, uphill on the crag. Stage on the ground by the Undertow approach ledge.

    Protection 

    Seven bolts plus chain anchors.

    Per Mark E Dixon: 7 bolts plus anchors.


    Comments on Sick For Sleeping Add Comment
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    By Pinklebear
    Apr 27, 2013

    Found a draw on this route today (4/27/13). PM me to describe it and I'll get it back to you.
    By Dean Cool
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 29, 2013

    Best to downclimb and lower off the last bolt before the chains or rap off when cleaning the route. It's a little sharp, and there is some rope drag at the top.
    By Mark E Dixon
    From: Sprezzatura, Someday
    Sep 15, 2015

    Only 7 bolts plus something for the anchors.

    A nice warm-up, worth doing.

    Still a few loose holds, especially at the horizontal just before the crux, but they are avoidable.

    Cleaning by lowering off the anchors didn't seem excessively abrasive to me. Maybe the anchors have been moved?
    By jarthur
    From: Westminster, CO
    Mar 5, 2017

    I'm not sure why the FA decided to put a bolt in the initial slab. It's the same ledge system that everything left and right of Undertow are on, and Undertow has a harder scramble with no protection. While I appreciate new routes, putting up random bolts in a 5.0 slab is not only a waste of a perfectly good bolt but an eyesore as well.
    By Chris Beh
    Mar 10, 2017

    Jarthur, the first bolt was put there to make to pitch safe, especially for less experienced climbers. Since one is roped up and leading, I kind of like having a bolt there, myself, just to be safe. That bolt was approved with the full consideration of the Fixed Hardware Review Committee. BTW, if you are scrambling straight up to Undertow, it is much easier to walk uphill and scramble up at the same place for SFS and then back across the ledge. I used to bring my dog up to Undertow that way.
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    May 12, 2017
    rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    A cool pitch though the low slab detracts somewhat. Barely harder than its neighbor with a fun upper crux.

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