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Siam Paradise 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Ben Grasser?
Page Views: 34
Submitted By: Tao Techakanon on Aug 8, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A long and sustained pumpy climbing with 3 distinct cruxes. There are 2 no hand rest in between to de-pump. An endurance test piece for the grade.

60m WILL NOT reach the ground. Make sure you have a 70m if you want to try it.

Location 

To the right of the main wall. The left variation is called Verdon Paradise and goes at around 10d

Protection 

about 16 draws including the anchor. Some long slings are advice to reduce rope drag.


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By Snook Chaipornvadee
Nov 1, 2016

Add three long draws before the first roof and one long draw immediately right after the first roof to help reduce drag. Not doing so will make clipping at the second roof quite a work.

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