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The Far Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
18NY (aka The Chickens are Breastless) T,S 
5.8 TR 
At Last S 
Atlas S 
Atlas Shrugged S 
Baby Atlas (aka The Chickens are Restless) S 
Better Eat Your Wheaties T,S 
Bushy Crack T 
Cereal Killer S 
Chief, The S,TR 
Death to the Right T 
Far aka Let's Climb Naked S 
Far Out S 
Far Side Chimney T 
Feelin' Your Oats T 
Forrester's Crack T 
Hummingbird Spire, N. Face T 
Initiation Rite T 
Jardinero S 
Koka T 
Kola S 
Livin' on a Prayer S 
Mystery Hole S,TR 
Near Side Chimney T 
New Tradition S,TR 
Old Spice T 
Old Tradition T 
Pile, The T 
Planet of the Grapes T 
Rite of Passage T 
Saviour Heart T,S 
Separation Anxiety S,TR 
Shute-Mills Route S 
Something Good S,TR 
Step To The Left T,S 
Synchronicity S 
Tradfest T 
War Party S,TR 

Shute-Mills Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Forrest Shute and Wade Mills
Page Views: 8,031
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Apr 12, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (72)
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Me rappelling down after cleaning the route


The first climb you see as you arrive at the Far Side, and a great warm-up. Lots of good pockes on a vertical boulder reaching about 50' feet up. Getting over the bulge near the top is the crux.


One of the few well-protected climbs in the Far Side. 5 bolts to a 3 bolt anchor shared with the other climbs on the rock.

Photos of Shute-Mills Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Friend top-roping the route
Friend top-roping the route
Rock Climbing Photo: Beautiful day at Shute Mills
Beautiful day at Shute Mills
Rock Climbing Photo: Had a blast up in the July heat today. Doing some ...
Had a blast up in the July heat today. Doing some ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Beta photo for Shute-Mills Route
BETA PHOTO: Beta photo for Shute-Mills Route
Rock Climbing Photo: the climb as seen from below, with the line roughl...
BETA PHOTO: the climb as seen from below, with the line roughl...

Comments on Shute-Mills Route Add Comment
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By harmonydoc
Feb 13, 2006
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun route, first bolt a bit high but otherwise well protected. Easier if you work your way up a gully to the right and approach the first bolt from that side. Also easier if you go left instead of straight over the bulge near the top. Probably 5.8 if you do these things, 5.9 if you stay on the line of the bolts. Shared anchor with New Tradition 5.7 to the left.
By Floyd Hayes
Oct 27, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

For me the crux is getting to the first bolt, which I approach from the left, and I think it's solid 5.9. A small cam can be placed before the first bolt, but it takes out a good handhold. The bulge at the top is much easier, at least for me, feeling no harder than 5.7.
By Cam Parry
From: Angwin, CA
May 26, 2009

I agree w/ Floyd - crux is down low - below 1st bolt and is closer to 5.9 than 5.8.
By Jerry Dodrill
From: Bodega, CA
Mar 8, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The set of rusty 1/4" rappel chains and other set of bolts with 1960s era Leeper hangers have been replaced with stainless Fixe hardware.
By Kyle Townsend
From: Oakland, CA
Jul 1, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Direct start is 5.9 and heads up if you aren't solid at the grade. Well protected climb, great beginner lead. Rap from the top to avoid unnecessary wear and tear on the rope.
By splitclimber
Sep 4, 2012

top rope the independent line to the right. holds almost dissapear but not quite. :)
By Oscar Fate
From: Detroit, MI
Jul 7, 2014

the two new Fixe anchors are loose, but there are backup options aplenty.
By FourT6and2 Haftel
From: San Francisco, CA
Apr 18, 2016

Yeah, crux is definitely the first section up to the first bolt. After that, it's smooth sailing. The move that makes this route worth it for me is right when you go over the little mini roof. I won't give the move away, but it's not hard, but makes you feel like you've accomplished something.

Just a correction from a previous comment, this route does NOT share the same anchor with New Tradition. There are 4 bolts up top, two for New Tradition, two for this route. The bolts are pretty bomber and all have rap rings.
By Kevin Miller
From: San Francisco, CA
Aug 5, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I agree- if you climb directly to the first bolt, you will want to be solid at 5.9. Really fun route! Anchor bolts were solid as of July 2016.
By Adam Lokar
Mar 13, 2017

Beautiful views, nice moves, and solid bolts all the way up, at the top is a nice anchor with rings that is easy to access if looking to top rope. Crux is definitely right at the start.

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