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YDS: 5.13+ French: 8b Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a PG13

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.13+ French: 8b Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a PG13 [details]
FA: Mikey Schaefer
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 965
Submitted By: Mikey Schaefer on Nov 30, 2015

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photo by Ian Yurdin

Seasonal Raptor Closure starts Jan 15 each year; No top access - private land MORE INFO >>>


This is the open corner directly left of Gold Rush and is easy to TR off of the GR anchors with a finger sized directional.

Starts with some bouldery stems and one hard crank that leads to a no hands stem rest. The middle part of the route is a mix of laybacking and tenuous stems with one harder move thrown in. There is small horizontal break at two-thirds height with a shitty stem rest. Probably 13- to this point. Above the break is probably a V6 or harder boulder problem that involves some really engaging body sequences that start as a layback, then to a stem, then to a really slippery arete move followed by a thank-god jug on the arete. Easier climbing leads to the top and the Gold Rush anchors.

Your toes and calf muscles better be in good shape for this one. They will surely get pumped up there.

A bit of FA history. I've heard the line had been tr'd by a few different people over the years due to its proximity to Gold Rush but no serious attempts besides Tommy Caldwell. Rumor has it that he tried it maybe 6 times over a couple days but never came away with the redpoint. I started attempting it my 2nd day climbing at Trout and quickly became obsessed with it. I spent two and a half sporadic years working on it and probably a total of 40 or so tr and lead burns. Finally sent it on cold (high of 37°F) November day.

And as far as the rating goes, I found it pretty hard to rate. Somedays it would feel impossible for me but when I finally redpointed it, it didn't feel too bad. Others that TR'd it felt the 13+ rating was warranted but I thought maybe more like mid 5.13. I've been told I am a sandbagger and am trying to change that so I went with the possibly inflated grade this time to make everyone happy.

The name of the route, Shúshaynsh, is the local Native American word for a Steelhead trout. It is pronounced shoe-shines-shh Here is a link to it being pronounced


3x Purple C3
5x Green C3
3x Red C3
3x Yellow C3
2,3,4 BD stopper

The first two pieces (Red C3 and #4 stopper) were pre-placed as well as the #2 and #3 stopper that can be clipped from the arete jug.

I gave the route pg-13 as it is just a bit spicey going for the arete jug (the crux). My feet were about 6 or 7 ft above the final purple C3 at this point.

See beta photo for a pic of the rack and the order it went in.

Photos of Shushaynsh Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The rack in order
BETA PHOTO: The rack in order

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By peachy spohn
Dec 1, 2015

Way to go Mikey! Looks amazing, except for the gear. Congrats

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