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Near End of Sunshine Wall (aka Twin Cracks Area)
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Climb left behind, The T 
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Easy Off S 
HIV Positive T 
In Too Deep T 
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Manxome Foe, The S 
Painted Black T 
Party in Your Pants T 
Pats crack T 
Puppies in the Blender T 
Ride 'em Cowboy S 
Shrinking Ball Disease T 
Snooze Ya Lose S 
Spinning Mars T 
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VD Test T 
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Shrinking Ball Disease 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: will need to look up
Page Views: 665
Submitted By: rpc on Apr 1, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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The crux opener of Shrinking Ball Disease. Party ...

Description 

The crux of this one hits right off the ground and it’s also the section that protects the poorest. The first satisfying placement is about 5 feet below the bolt which itself is not really in the best location as a bomber placement can be found 8 inches above it (but of course I clipped it). Once you clip the bolt, the climbing eases (& seriousness decreases) to typical Sunshine Wall crack climbing (i.e. stemming). Belay off the bolted anchors atop the sport route to the right.

Location 

Thin crack immediately to the right of Party In Your Pants. There’s a lone bolt 20-25 feet up. Maybe the name implies this already but it felt more heads-up than the Spinning Mars (11b) crack immediately left of Party…

Protection 

Micro cams but really not that many since even the tiniest ones are too large for the crack below the bolt. A mid-sized (#3 or 4) HB offset or equivalent. Otherwise gear to 2 inches with an optional #3 for the easy exit hand crack. Lowe Balls would probably work but I did not bring any.


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By ehhaole
From: Seattle, WA
Sep 23, 2013

There is an unfinished (or pulled) bolt hole near the sporty start of this climb. My guess is that someone decided that it should either be toproped from the sport climb next to it, or led by people who like unprotected balance-y stems with groundfall potential.
By rpc
Sep 24, 2013

Some historical perspective
cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbt...
By Ethan Henderson
From: Silverdale, WA
Oct 7, 2013

Start protects decently with a 1 and 2 loweball i believe
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Nov 2, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

yes it used to have a bolt, and agree the 2nd bolt is not needed. Fun moves getting up to the existing bolt. Some other cruxy bits, but much easier overall after the first 20'.
By Crag Turkey
From: Holladay, UT
Jun 1, 2016

One spicy meatball to lead, but if you fancy hard moves above run outs and thin gear this one is for you! found moves above the bolt to still be engaging, and lots of fun stemming to be had in combination with thin crack climbing. One could lead it with just the bolt clipped and still have a quality pseudo lead.

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