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Shrieking Chimnoids 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, TR, 135'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Jay Ladin & Bobbi Bensman, 1983
Season: Spring & Fall West Facing
Page Views: 63
Submitted By: Hendrixson on May 7, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Image borrowed from user James Beissel and the CO ...


Enjoy contorting your body into awkward positions and squeezing yourself into tight spaces? If so this is the climb for you.

The crux, which comes early and takes good gear, leads to a wider, featured chimney and moderate, less-than-vertical face climbing. The latter portions were runout but mild.

This climb, like most chimney routes, will appeal to a limited audience.


The route ascends the prominent west-facing chimney system, spanning New Wave Wall and Ribbit Wall.

Squeezing the Lemmon II lists this route under both walls.


A wide variety of traditional gear. I placed everything from a Black Diamond C3 #000 to C4 #5. Depending on your comfort level you could probably get away with a lot less (and probably squeeze into the chimney a lot easier!). Use long runners to prevent rope drag.

The anchor consists of a single beefy bolt on a mushroom-like feature. This feature can be lassoed for redundancy.

One can walk off or use the anchors of a shorter climb. I used the anchors of Holey Moley. Alternatively one could probably rappel off the anchors of Tsunami for a shorter climb.

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