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Lower Castle Rock
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Aids Victim T,S 
Amy Carter T 
Bird's Nest Overhang T 
Blood Transfusion T 
Bone, The T 
Brass Balls T 
Catapult T 
Clean Love T 
Fault, The T 
Flying Frog T 
Idiot's Delight T 
Idiots journey T 
Mr. Clean T 
PG Advised T,S 
Shriek of the Mutilated T 
Smut T 
Vertebrae., The T 

Shriek of the Mutilated 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Peter Croft, Jim Yoder 1981
Page Views: 859
Submitted By: Sol Wertkin on Oct 19, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: The crux is perfectly lit up by the sun, as I scru...

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Description 

This awesome roof problem on Lower Castle Rock provides exciting moves and great exposure. Solid gear and a tricky lip sequence highlight this neglected classic.

5.10ish climbing leads up the slabs directly below the roof with spaced but good gear. Clip the manky pin and move into a awkward stance below the first roof. Fire in some gear and giv'er. The second roof is more easily climbed to a good ledge and a traditional anchor.

SUPER dirty climbing continues up to Loggers Ledge/Upper Castle.

Location 

Starts to the right of Brass Balls on Lower Castle Rock. From near the base of Brass Balls scramble rightward to a good gear belay on the slab, directly in line with the roof cracks above.

Protection 

1-2 sets of cams from green alien to #2. Save a #1 and #2 for above the crux. The manky fixed pin can be backed up by a yellow alien.


Comments on Shriek of the Mutilated Add Comment
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By Sol Wertkin
From: Leavenworth, Washington
Oct 19, 2013

Scrubbed up nicely by Shaun Johnson in the Fall of 2013. Thanks Shaun!
By Jplotz
From: Wenatchee, WA
Oct 28, 2013

Nice send Sol!
By Jens Holsten
Mar 31, 2015

This is a really good route!

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