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Shoulders

Original Post
Sends McGee · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 15

I am certain one of the biggest weaknesses in my climbing is my shoulders. I've Googled some workouts to improve their strength, but didn't come up with much specific to climbing. Found one routine wrapping a resistance band around both wrists with arms extended outwards, then moving one hand to 3-o'clock, 6 o'clock, 9 o'clock, etc.

Anyone have any recommendations for best shoulder workouts specifically targeted for climbing?

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

Depends on what your shoulders need. This should get you started:

mountainproject.com/scripts…

google.com/?client=ubuntu#q…

youtube.com/channel/UCGl-V-…

youtube.com/results?search_…

https://vimeo.com/113414647

Tradgic Yogurt · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2016 · Points: 55

I've found the workout here to be helping. Preferably do it before you climb, and don't feel shy to use small weight amounts if needed, the shoulder girdle is just that delicate.

dpmclimbing.com/articles/vi…

Bapgar 1 · · Out of the Loop · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 90

As a health care professional that works in the area of human performance and injury prevention this is a huge pet peeve of mine... so if I start a shit storm I only sort of apologize.

All of the info currently circulating through the climbing community on how to improve shoulder function and performance is CRAP. (There's maybe 2 semi worthwhile thoughts in the DPM article but then the article doesn't go into them)

The problem is this: For varied reasons climbers have adopted shoulder specific protocols from the world of rehab. That's fine if you've had shoulder surgery and actually need to do rehab.

(And here I'm not picking on Steve in particular, there are many climbing coaches and climbing specific training websites out there promoting the same drills.)

If you have healthy shoulders and are looking to make them stronger for climbing then all of the movement patterns/exercises in the
DPM article aren't going to get you to your goal because those exercises are specifically for rehabing an injured shoulder.

If trained properly shoulders will actually take a lot of abuse.
See Dimitry Klokov

The real problem most climbers have is that they don't take the time to make sure that they have fully functional shoulders before they launch into a conditioning program.
At least half of the climbers I work on don't have full scapular and glenohumeral function (that's a whole other topic in itself) so it's no surprise when they tweak something trying to train their shoulders even using 'good' shoulder strengthening drills.

Shoulders aren't all that delicate, but they are complicated. A successful shoulder strengthening program is going to include mobility/soft tissue work, motor patterning work and some good old fashioned heavy lifting.

Hopefully no one feels like I pissed in their cheerios, I'd just be psyched to see the climbing community have more up to date info on how to train for performance gains.
Happy Training,
BA

grog m · · Saltlakecity · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

Here ya go. Love this workout

dpmclimbing.com/articles/vi…

Edit, I see this was posted above now. Also Brent, all you did was point out a bunch of problems without really providing a solution or answers. Thanks?

Sends McGee · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 15

Thanks Brent, I saw many threads of shoulder rehab workouts and questioned whether they would be effective for "healthy" shoulder strengthening. Good to know they're not.
Are there any easy self-check tests I can perform to see if my shoulders are 100% healthy before I begin a training regime? I have never had any issues with them before, as far as ligament damage, arm-out-of-socket, bone breaks, muscles pulled, etc.
Lastly, if my shoulders are apparently healthy, do you have any specific workouts or routines you would advise or be able to direct me to? (Opinion on those already referenced?)
Thanks in advance!

John Lombardi · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 995

A couple good strength training exercises for shoulders are:

I's, Y's, and T's.

External and internal rotation (I believe the DPM article covers this. Just add weight instead of using resistance bands. Most gyms have this type of machine).

Dumbell lateral and front raise.

Overhead press.

That about covers it. I maybe do 1-2 other exercises but for strength training I used those 1-2 times a week. In fact, I had an injured rotator cuff and shoulder and after my rehab my Pt recommended these strength training. They're pretty good.

If you're worried that you're not at 100% then use light weights and try to use a lot of reps instead of a high weight low rep. Then go up from there.

Stephen C · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 0

I'm only speaking from experience here, but I find gymnastics rings to be highly effective for strengthening shoulders. Nearly every exercise works the entire shoulder girdle including large muscles and small stabilizing muscles.

Exercises, such as muscle ups, hand stand, ring supports, back lever, front lever, planche progressions work a fairly full range of shoulder motion and are difficult. If you want to get stronger the exercise has to be hard. Band exercises won't make shoulders stronger. Push ups won't make shoulders stronger unless you don't have a decent base level of strength (can do less than 20 or 30 push ups).

Also, doing wide moves and lock offs on a training wall work well for a sport specific exercise.

This is what works for me anyway.

Stephen C · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 0

Also...

I know climbers who climb at a fairly high level (V10/V11) that can do one arm pull ups and other hard exercises, yet still experience shoulder injuries.

From what I can tell it's because their shoulders are very tight and only work in a specific range of motion. I think that if they did gymnastics strength and mobility exercises their shoulder injuries/pain would be completely eliminated.

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35
Hunter McPherson wrote:I am certain one of the biggest weaknesses in my climbing is my shoulders. I've Googled some workouts to improve their strength, but didn't come up with much specific to climbing. Found one routine wrapping a resistance band around both wrists with arms extended outwards, then moving one hand to 3-o'clock, 6 o'clock, 9 o'clock, etc. Anyone have any recommendations for best shoulder workouts specifically targeted for climbing?
Your profile says you're climbing at 11a sport and 5.nothin trad. At this level, the weakness isn't your shoulders. It's your technique first, your forearm endurance second, and probably your head third.

From your pics you probably come from an athletic background where weaknesses are fixed in the gym. I'm guessing lacrosser who got into crossfit after graduation. Climbing doesn't work that way. It's a movement sport, where you need to cognitively learn how to move over time. You also need your body to learn how to move, almost subconsciously in response to different challenges. The answer to both of these is mileage. Lots and lots of mileage. Sometimes pushing your limits and other times just climbing anything. Might take years, might take decades. It depends on your body and how often you climb.

If you get your forearms into good solid gym shape, where you can shake out once you hit a decent hold, you'll have more time on the rock to work out your movement.

I have serious doubts that any amount of shoulder strength is going to change this. I'm not saying that solid shoulders are bad, I'm just saying that if you want the greatest return on time invested, shoulders are probably a waste of time for you.

Look into the Self Coached Climber. It's a little dated (8 yrs I think) but is a good foundation for movement and mileage. Other more performance oriented folks could point you to more resources if you ask nice.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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