|Original:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|Submitted By:||wasatch-mtn-man Pollard on Oct 21, 2010|
|Comments on Shotgun (Variation)||Add Comment|
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By Hendo Henderson
From: Denver, CO
Jun 29, 2013
|This is a burly roof if I've ever climbed one! Pretty fun trad lead. There is a piton you can clip right under the roof, but on lead, it might be best not to clip it (I did...). The rope drag is very much decreased if you don't, and while leading, the rope doesn't get in your way. You've just got to be 100% confident in your #2 placement in the roof. That's the catch. My #2 caught two falls. So it is a bomber placement!|
By William Kramer
From: Kemmerer, WY
Aug 15, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Love the jams pulling the roof!
I agree, don't clip the pin, even with a long runner it's more of a burden.