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Shotgun (Variation) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, TR
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 915
Submitted By: wasatch-mtn-man on Oct 21, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Cresting the overhang on Shotgun (Variation).


This is essentially Shotgun but with the variation of pulling the roof further down instead of continuing up into the apex of the roof before pulling out. Although similar to Shotgun, we thought it was fun enough to include it as a separate route.

Just after you exit the splitter 'lighting bolt' crack you will see two cracks in the roof that angle up and to climber's left. Hold your breath and work these two overhanging cracks until you get on the upper face. Easy ascent from there. Committing and FUN!


As per Shotgun - plus you can clip a piece of history and clip the piton in the higher of the two cracks. Can be protected well with a #2 Camalot - maybe even a #3.

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By Hendo Henderson
From: Denver, CO
Jun 29, 2013

This is a burly roof if I've ever climbed one! Pretty fun trad lead. There is a piton you can clip right under the roof, but on lead, it might be best not to clip it (I did...). The rope drag is very much decreased if you don't, and while leading, the rope doesn't get in your way. You've just got to be 100% confident in your #2 placement in the roof. That's the catch. My #2 caught two falls. So it is a bomber placement!
By William Kramer
From: Kemmerer, WY
Aug 15, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Love the jams pulling the roof!

I agree, don't clip the pin, even with a long runner it's more of a burden.

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