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Shortoff Mountain

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Appalachain Chuffer T 
Appalachain Runt T 
Between The Lines T 
Big Arete, The T 
Bonsai T 
Built to Tilt T 
Change Up T 
Comfortably Numb T 
Construction Job T 
Dancing Outlaw, The T,S 
Desp-arete S 
Dopey Duck T 
Early Times T 
Energizer T,S 
Enterprise, The T 
False Paradise T 
Finders Keepers T 
Fly By T 
Footloose T 
For The Birds T 
Full Tilt Boogie T 
Golden Rule T,S 
Gully Rappel T,TR 
Help Mr. Wizard T 
Humdinger T 
Hurricane Escape Hatch T 
Julia T 
Just Another Pretty Face T,S 
Last Straw, The T,S 
Learning to fly T 
Little Corner T 
Lost and Found T,S 
Made in the shade T 
Maginot Line T 
Maginot Roof T 
Paradise Alley T 
Paradise City T 
Paradise Lost T 
Pinball Wizard T 
Reacharound T 
Saddle Up T 
Sleight of Hand T 
Stopperhead Arete T 
Straight and Narrow T 
Supercrack  T 
Tilted Arms T 
Toxic Shock T 
Trick Or Treat T 
Turn and Burn T 
Twist of fate T 
White Corner T 
White Russians Gone Bananas T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Shortoff Mountain Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 35.8314, -81.9026 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 53,740
Administrators: Ryan Williams, ShockSLL, Aaron Parlier, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Joe Forrester on Apr 2, 2007
Forecast:
Tonight

35°
Thursday

42° | 18°
Friday

30° | 19°
Saturday

36° | 23°
Sunday

43° | 35°
Monday

48° | 32°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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A view down Shortoff with climbers on Straight and...

  • All climbing routes between and including C.O. to and including Paradigm Shift are closed. MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closure-Lifted MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Shortoff Mountain is a beautiful adventure climbing locale at the southern end of the Linville Gorge in NC. The southwest exposures are perfect on autumn and spring days when you can look across the gorge and see the reds and yellows or greens and whites. There are rarely other climbers there, the most crowded weekend I have seen is two other parties. The climbing as far as I know all requires an ability to place gear and build your own anchors. If you just clip bolts, you might want to freshen up on your gear skills first. The rock is characterized by crack systems interspersed with wild horizontals. On many routes, a hug horizontal jug is just far enough out of reach to make it exciting. The rock is clean in most places, but there is a fair bit of lichen on the rarely climbed routes, giving the climbs an increased sense of adventure.

    Shortoff North/Shortoff South 

    The approach gully is the main landmark for locating routes at Shortoff. For convenience, route descriptions in this section will include the designation Shortoff North for lines north of the approach gully, and Shortoff South for climbs to the south of the gully.

    Getting There 

    Take exit 90 (Nebo/Lake James) to the north. You will be on Harmony Grove Road. You have two options, left or right. If you go left, take a right when you hit NC 126, if you go right take a left. Either way, get to NC 126 and follow it North. You will pass through some farmland and golf course as you pass around Lake James. After you cross a small one lane bridge a ways down the road (10 miles) start looking for Wolf Pit Road (it is dirt). Follow this road up until it dead ends. There is camping at the end of the road. However, you have to pass through private property in your car so respect that. Keep the music down and don't camp on someone's property.

    Approach by taking the logging road at the north end of the turn around. At one point you will cross the Mountain to Sea trail. keep Going straight (west). You will eventually reach a spring. This is the approach gully. If you have climbed in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, your option will seem fairly obvious. Drop down the gully and be ready to climb out. Oh, the water should be OK coming from the tap.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 7.1 miles from here

    52 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',29],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',3],['5.7',3],['5.8',1],['5.9',7],['5.10',14],['5.11',22],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Shortoff Mountain

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Shortoff Mountain:
    Little Corner   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   
    False Paradise   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 4 pitches   
    Maginot Line   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 4 pitches, 300'   
    Paradise Alley   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 450'   
    Dopey Duck   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 350'   
    Construction Job   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
    Finders Keepers   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
    Straight and Narrow   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 340'   
    Built to Tilt   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
    Julia   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
    Humdinger   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   
    The Dancing Outlaw   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 400'   
    Stopperhead Arete   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 350'   
    Paradise City   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   
    Help Mr. Wizard   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
    Golden Rule   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 130'   
    The Big Arete   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
    Pinball Wizard   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
    Paradise Lost   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 300'   
    Supercrack    5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Shortoff Mountain

    Featured Route For Shortoff Mountain
    Rock Climbing Photo: Austin Howell soloing the upper portion of "P...

    Pinball Wizard 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain
    More steep climbing in the Tilted World. Access this route similar to the other routes in this area. There are many ways to get to the Tilted World (see below). P1: Climb one of many routes. Most guidebooks will start you on Seretripitous or Built to Tilt's first pitch.P2: Start on pitch 2 of Built to Tilt. Go left and up on the arch to a stance. You will be belaying down and left of where Built to Tilt goes. You can also link pitch 1 and 2 together.P3: Instead of climbing the dihedral on Built ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NC

    Photos of Shortoff Mountain Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Mr Brown, all smiles, following the last pitch of ...
    Mr Brown, all smiles, following the last pitch of ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Seasonal bird closure area topo.  This is a good c...
    BETA PHOTO: Seasonal bird closure area topo. This is a good c...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jon following pitch 2 of "Tall Order"
    Jon following pitch 2 of "Tall Order"
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking out from the top of Shortoff at Lake James
    Looking out from the top of Shortoff at Lake James
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking into Tilted World
    Looking into Tilted World
    Rock Climbing Photo: View from Construction Job, a classic 5.9
    View from Construction Job, a classic 5.9
    Rock Climbing Photo: The down climb into Shortoff Mtn, Linville Gorge, ...
    The down climb into Shortoff Mtn, Linville Gorge, ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: View from Paradise Alley
    View from Paradise Alley
    Rock Climbing Photo: Shortoff Mountain seen from Old NC 105.
    Shortoff Mountain seen from Old NC 105.
    Rock Climbing Photo: North section with a few routes drawn in
    BETA PHOTO: North section with a few routes drawn in
    Rock Climbing Photo: View of Table Rock Mountain as seen from Shortoff
    View of Table Rock Mountain as seen from Shortoff
    Rock Climbing Photo: Crux of the Approach Gully,  It is has been rainin...
    Crux of the Approach Gully, It is has been rainin...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Love this view, love Linville Gorge!
    Love this view, love Linville Gorge!
    Rock Climbing Photo: dropping down into the upper section of the approa...
    dropping down into the upper section of the approa...
    Rock Climbing Photo: New Signage to get you on the right trail
    BETA PHOTO: New Signage to get you on the right trail
    Rock Climbing Photo: View of Lake Glenville from the trail up to Shorto...
    View of Lake Glenville from the trail up to Shorto...
    Rock Climbing Photo: From Kistler
    From Kistler
    Rock Climbing Photo: View north from Shortoff.
    View north from Shortoff.

    Comments on Shortoff Mountain Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Josh Lipko
    From: Charlotte
    Sep 11, 2016
    CONDITION REPORT 
    As of yesterday (9/10/16) the rappel station had been removed from the large, healthy tree halfway down the gully. Not a huge deal to go all the way down the gully, but any idea why the slings were removed? They were in good shape about a month ago when I was there last. I assume they had been eaten through by something.
    By Bob Underwood
    From: greensboro
    Nov 13, 2007
    About the Wolfpit road turn off of 126: it is about a quarter mile west of the shoreline view of lake James. With the directions given - if you see a big lake on your right, you have gone 1/4 mile too far.
    The road is now in good shape all the way to the circle at the end. Camping here is ok. But if you want privacy, better hump it up the mountain about 1 hour hike.

    The path you want from the Wolfpit circle goes uphill and turns right uphill.

    Water is scarce on Shortoff. linvillegorge.net gives maps and waypoints for the two springs.

    The north end of Shortoff has less dramatic rock but is relatively unexplored.

    Bob Underwood
    By Jesse Morehouse
    From: CO
    May 31, 2008
    One of the most fantastic crags in one of the most fantastic settings imaginable. You camp on top of the cliff with views over the gorge. Most routes are free of fixed gear or anchors, sandbagged, and follow spectacular lines. There are classic lines from 5.6 on up to 5.11. On holiday weekends you might need to share the place w/2-3 parties. A small slice of heaven.
    By Bob Underwood
    From: greensboro
    Sep 14, 2008
    Before the 2000 fire there used to be a trail from the Wolfpit trail which cut south and followed the 2200 contour line, crossed the MST and tied in to the base of the Shortoff cliffs. To follow this old trail was even more demanding than to hike all the way to the top of the mountain and reach the same area by scrambling down thru the Descent Gully. I wonder if this old trail still exists?
    By John Matthew
    Dec 24, 2008
    Climbers should be aware that evac'ing out of Shortoff is a serious endeavour. The descent gully has two fifth-class sections, one with a fixed rope. Any type of injury, especially to a lower extremity, could require the support of a rescue squad. Take the grades seriously.
    By mbuntaine
    From: Santa Barbara, CA
    Nov 9, 2009
    On the approach trail: In order to walk to the top of Shortoff, you need to take a 90 degree right hand turn about 1/4 mile down the trail that comes off the back of the parking lot. After taking this turn, follow the trail up the switchbacks. After another 1/2 mile, there is a four-way intersection. Continue straight across on the Mountain to Sea trail, blazed white. Another 1/4 mile will lead to the obvious spring and descent gully.

    If you miss the 90 degree right turn 1/4 mile along the entrance trail, you will end up way down in the valley in a maze of ATV tracks. Easy to do at night - ouch!!
    By Drew Hayes
    From: Charlotte, NC
    Aug 19, 2014
    Can someone post the beta for rapping in (or PM it to me)? Is it possible with one 70m rope? Thank you!