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Shortcut 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
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Page Views: 81
Submitted By: Marta Reece on Sep 18, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: The second of the Gendarmes you come to on the app...

Description 

The route is a shortcut on the way to the West Ridge of the Wedge (or Lost Peak). Instead of the detour to the left of the next Gendarme, you continue to head up. After all, the point is climbing, not not climbing, right?

Pitch 1, 110 ft, goes up the gully, which takes a bit of a break before it steepens. We belayed from above this step.

Pitch 2, 80 ft, was to the right (would have been a continuation of the slab version below). It was uniformly steep in on a rock cut up by vertical cracks, protectable and fun.

Location 

On the left side of the first of the Gendarmes. There are a number of gullies to the left of this peak. The largest has a huge chock stone on top. The one to the right of it a smaller chock. The Shortcut goes up the one to the right of that.

The topout did not get us to the saddle before entering Lost Peak/Wedge gully, but to a saddle before that. But it was a scramble to get over the rock pile in the way.

Protection 

A single set of cams in mid sizes is plenty for this.


Photos of Shortcut Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: First and Second Gendarmes. Photo Drew Chojnowski.
BETA PHOTO: First and Second Gendarmes. Photo Drew Chojnowski.
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of route. A cleaner version is to be had to ...
BETA PHOTO: Start of route. A cleaner version is to be had to ...

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