REI Community
Seal Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Archaeopteryx T 
Choose Life S,TR 
Choose Muscle S 
East Face North Side/Seal Rock T 
East Face South Side T 
Gruffalo, The S 
I Am The Walrus S 
Jade Gate S 
Misbehaven T,TR 
Primate T 
Sea Bird T 
Sea of Joy S 
Shortcut (East Face) T 
Skin Flute S,TR 
Southwest Face T 
Supercell S 
Thunder Muscle S 
Yellow Door Direct S 
Yellow Door, The T 

Shortcut (East Face) 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: ??
Page Views: 1,947
Submitted By: Robbie Kalinowski on May 14, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Longer, less exposed route to ground along the ram...

  • Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    You could climb the entire East Face, OR if you want the best for less, climb the Shortcut. This is a great easy climb on slightly atypical Flatiron Rock: you get a nice crack! Continue to hike West, past the base of Seal Rock on the right (north) side. (go up a level for those directions) to where all the crazies will be starting Archeopteryx and Sea of Joy. When you see the sheer North Face, take a look up as you will rap down this wall, and then turn left (east) onto some boulders and set up a belay before you scramble up the north side of the East Face at its obvious weakness.Once on the East Face, head up a few feet on the obvious ledge and set a belay there. The belayer will appreciate being on the face instead of on the boulders by your packs, and rope drag will be less. P2: continue up the ledge to the obvious 100 ft. finger crack (4). Set a belay on a nice ledge which also sports a fixed pin. P3: continue up and jump past a break in the rock to the summit. The pro is sparse now as the crack is gone, but the "difficulty" eases. Ah.. the view. P4: Downclimb to the break (pls. do this roped, especially beginners!) and find the rap station on the north side of the East Face. Tie your 50m (Rossiter recomends 60m, but I've been fine with 50's) together and have a great rap!


    Typical Flatiron Rack. 2 60m ropes are recommended, but I've done the rap with 2 50s and been ok. You should find the rap station with slings and rap rings, but if early in the season, use caution.

    Photos of Shortcut (East Face) Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: The shoulder of Seal Rock, before steeper crack se...
    BETA PHOTO: The shoulder of Seal Rock, before steeper crack se...
    Rock Climbing Photo: "Downclimb to the break" -- James at the...
    "Downclimb to the break" -- James at the...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The fun crack on P3!
    The fun crack on P3!

    Comments on Shortcut (East Face) Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Leo Paik
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Mar 12, 2002

    This is also a decent downclimb for those who don't like the rappel. Makes for a nice 7 pitch adventure up the E face and down Shortcut. There are many better East Face slab routes in the Flatirons, however.
    By David Neckels
    Mar 28, 2002

    Ahggg!! Should find the route with slings and rings?? I will never ever never depend on slings that I find. $2 for 3 feet of sling, $2 for a rap ring. $4 == I'm alive. Ok, guess I will....

    Don't mean to be disagreeable, just would hate to see someone come along that didn't know better learn to trust other people's slings from this :)
    By Tonya Clement
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 28, 2003

    My partner and I strung the first two pitches together and simul-climbed on two 60m ropes. The rope drag was a bit too much for me, probably due to the low pitch of the climb. It was nice to do it here as these two pitches were relatively easy and took good gear. The lines were not obvious to me so I assume anything goes and the entire face can be climbed. We chose not to simul-climb the crack and set a belay at the neck. The crack was the most interesting and fun part of the climb. Perhaps, others would say the rappel is the best part of this climb. The slings on the rap were in great shape as of today 5.28.03.
    By James Garnett
    From: Bellingham, WA
    Sep 14, 2003

    Tonya, if I'm not mistaken, there's a loose block right about at your waist in the picture you added below. It's big enough to cause some serious distress to the belayer (who is located directly below); did you see that same block? At any rate, to in general: be careful what you yard on while climbing this crack. It's a blast, but there's at least one time bomb a-waitin' here....
    By Gary Schmidt
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 10, 2006

    Short cut is a fun adventure, but it is probably as much a hike as a climb. Once you scramble onto the start ledge about half way up the face (exposed 5.0?) you can easily summit in two pitches with a 60m rope. My partner ran out his rope on the first pitch, and I had only about 75 ft left to the summit. Probably the most exciting part is the rappel which deposits you back conveniently almost where you started the climb! Please inspect all the slings carefully, as the way they are configured, a lot of stress is being placed on the same part of the sling where it passes through the bolt hanger. So even if the sling looks new, it could be worn through at the bolt.(American triangle in hanger bolts? eeks.) On a beautiful spring, this is a nice conditioning hike and overall a fun outing.
    By nick moeckel
    Apr 21, 2006
    rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

    If you're not in the mood to enjoy the hike in, the crack probably isn't going to be reward enough to make you a happy climber. It's quite a long way in for what's essentially one pitch of debatable quality. That said, the view from the summit is fantastic, and it's spacious- just take the time to appreciate the trip in.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About