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Lover's Leap on Beaver Brook
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
ABBA T,TR 
BB Brain S 
BB Gun S 
BB King S 
Bed And Breakfast T 
Black And Blue S 
Butt Over Buttress TR 
Project S 
Red Ryder 
Short, Sweet Crack T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Short, Sweet Crack 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 20'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a R [details]
FA: unknown. Someone must have done this before me!
Season: All
Page Views: 422
Submitted By: Corbett W on Feb 28, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: The last bit of the upper part.

Description 

This is a sweet hand and fist crack in a dihedral. It is only 15-20 feet, if that, above the boulders at the base. At the top, scramble across a gap and up to the top of Lover's Leap to the Beaver Brook trail.

Location 

Just to the left of the "BB" routes, scramble up a short boulder ramp to the base of this route. It is fantastic fun to run from Windy Saddle with a climbing shoe in each hand, change into shoes, jam the crack, scramble up to the trail, change back into running shoes, and run back, if you're so inclined!

Protection 

The crack itself could easily be protected with midsize cams. An anchor could easily be constructed at the top of the crack. I've only ever soloed it. A fall from the crack would be "bad", but, with good crack technique, you can easily lock yourself into the crack.


Photos of Short, Sweet Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A close up of the crack section.
BETA PHOTO: A close up of the crack section.
Rock Climbing Photo: Short sweet crack.  Boulder ramp at bottom of crac...
Short sweet crack. Boulder ramp at bottom of crac...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from above the crack section.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down from above the crack section.
Rock Climbing Photo: Closer view of crack.
Closer view of crack.

Comments on Short, Sweet Crack Add Comment
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By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Feb 28, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Where is this? A description would be nice.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Jun 25, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I now know where this is, and I climbed it today. It is longer than 20'. It is about 80' to the top of the rock. The actual crack is only about 20' long. I think it is harder than 5.5. I think it is 5.7. I am glad I did not solo it, but the route is fun.